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This section contains detailed information on various hiking trails at Mount Tamalpais State Park. This Park is fondly known as "Mount Tam" by the people of the San Francisco Bay Area and trail maps my be obtained at the Pantoll Ranger Station. For information on Pantoll Ranger Station go to the Pantoll Ranger Station Trail Head area.
 Information on the Pan Toll Ranger Station Trail Head |
This 6,300 acre
park just north of San Francisco is primarily for day use, although there
are 16 developed walk-in camp sites and 6 environmental walk-in camps.
Ten rustic cabins perched on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean are
also popular. The park is a hiker's paradise, and the twisting road to
the top of the 2,571 foot summit attracts bicyclists. Most people, however,
drive to the top. Hiking trail maps can be obtained at the Pantoll Ranger
Station for all trails on Mount Tamalpais. Panoramic Road will also take
you pass Mountain Home Inn, then pass Bootjack Camp, and then leads you
to the Pantoll Ranger Station all of which are Trail Heads for numerous
hiking trails. There are parking lots at all three of these Trail Heads.
The two most important factors to consider when choosing a hiking trail are distance and elevation change. If you are new to hiking, it's best to choose a hike conservatively. Three miles of hiking in rough terrain can take as long as three miles on flat terrain.
Match the ruggedness of hiking experiences to the skills and physical abilities of the other hikers going with you. Treat wildlife with respect and take precautions to avoid dangerous encounters with wildlife. Leave snakes, bears, ground squirrels and other wildlife alone.
Once you've selected a range of distance and elevations, there are several questions you might consider. What is the best hike for this season? What are the conditions of the terrain of the hiking trails you have selected? What wildflowers are in bloom? Where are the best view hikes? A good place to begin answering these questions is to call the Pantoll Ranger Station or the Muir Woods Ranger Station.
Precautions: Obtain trail maps at the Ranger Stations and study them. The Rangers are there to assist you in any questions that you may have about the hiking trails and the areas you will be passing through.
Poison Oak:
Poison
oak for some is a minor irritation, for most, a major irritation and for
a few, a medical emergency. The best advise is to learn to identify the
plant by its leaves and avoid touching it. An old saying is "Leaves Of
Three ~ Leave It Be".
Learn to identify this California native plant as it changes through out the year. Leaves in groups of three may be green, red, shinny or dull, or gone in wnter.In fall, poison oak leaves turn crimson red and drop off. In winter, the bare branches are difficult to identify, yet still retain their toxic oils. It helps to stay on designated trails and to watch out for branches that lean out onto the trail or drape down over the path. Poison oak is very common on Mount Tamalpais.
Ticks and Lyme Disease:
Ticks are also common on Mount Tamalpais and are especially noticeable during the rainy season from November to May. Recent field studies have shown that 1-2% of the western black-legged ticks in Marin County carry Lyme Disease.
The best way to avoid ticks is to stay on trails. It also helps to wear light clothing so that ticks can be seen. Be sure to brush yourself frequently, especially after passing through tall grass or shrubs. After a hike, check yourself completely. Ticks anesthetize the skin before biting so you'll seldom feel the original bite.
Early removal of a tick reduces the risk of infection. Use tweezers rather than fingers. Grab the tick mouth parts as close to the skin as possible and pull straight out. Wash hands and clean the bite with an antiseptic.
The first recognizable symptom of Lyme disease is usually a ring-like red rash that occurs 3-30 days after the bite of an infected tick. The rash may grow to several inches in diameter, while clearing in the center, thus producing a ring. One or more rashes may occur and not always at the bit site. However, a rash only appears in 60-80% of infected persons. Other symptoms may include flu-like fever, chills, fatigue, headaches and a stiff neck. Since early diagnosis of Lyme disease is crucial, be sure to see a doctor if you think you have it.
Contact either the Pantoll Ranger Station or the Muir Woods Ranger Station, and the Park Rangers will help you learn how to properly identify poison oak leaves and ticks and how to treat infected areas. Report any tick bites to the park staff and ask them for first aid.
Detailed
Information on Tick and Lyme Disease
Yellow Jackets:
These
insects living mainly in logs or in the ground are attracted to meat and
sugar, an open soft drink can or a Bar-B-Q will attract yellow jackets
from long distances. Notify the park staff if you have found a place where
yellow jackets are flying in and out of a hole in a log or in the ground.
But watch them from a long distance. Yellow jackets will defend their nests
with repeated painful stings to any perceived invader. Stings can cause
severe allergic reactions. Report any stings to the park staff and ask
them for first aid.
Nettles:
Look for stinging nettles in moist areas where the ground is loose. Streambanks are ideal places for nettles to grow. Large, spear-shaped opposite leaves grow on a stem which may be up to six feet tall. Tiny poison-filled hairs can inflict a painful reaction when brushed against.
Fluids:
Fluids are essential when hiking or staying outdoors. Often, people go hiking or go to the beach and wind up the day with a mild headache. Usually, this is attributed to too much exposure, too much sun or too much wind. Many times, the problem is too little fluids. Hiking requires a minimum of 1/2 quart of fluids per hour, or more, depending on the temperature and elevation change. Alcohol does not count. It is a diuretic, which means that it removes fluid by osmosis in the stomach. It is always a good idea to carry water on a hike and to drink it regularly whether you feel thirsty or not.
Do not drink water from streams or lakes. Its may contain giardia, a protozoa that can cause severe stomach problems until treated with antibiotics.
Fires:
Wildfires are
part of the natural history of Mount Tamalpais. As the Oakland hills fire
has taught us, these wildfires can be deadly. During periods of extreme
fire danger, both State and Federal Park lands may be closed.
There is no smoking while you are on hiking trails; and please be very careful with lighted cigarettes and matches while you are not on hiking trails.
Getting Lost:
It is surprisingly easy to get lost on Mount Tamalpais, even when using an up-to-date book with good maps. There are four major reasons for this: there are lots of deer trails, a few trails are overgrown, some junctions lack signs, and people take short-cuts. Always check with the Ranger Stations for the condition of all trails if you are unfamiliar with them.
Your safety, the safety of others and
to assist in the protection of our fragile environment is primarily your
responsibility, however, all Park Rangers are there to protect and assist
you.
Courtesy:
Hikers step off trails to let horses pass.
Do not pick wildflowers. Enjoy them where they are the leave them
for others to see.
Keep noise down when you are around other campers and hikers.
Distance: 3.6 miles ~~ Shaded: 70%.
Elevation: 1,100 feet ~~ Steep in places.
When To Go:
Good in winter and spring, best on a clear April day. This is a breathtaking hike through forest, along coastal hills, then up spectacular Steep Ravine. Good wild flowers and good views.
0.0: Start at the Pantoll parking lot. take the paved road next to the Ranger Station south 200 feet to the signed Old MineTrail. Go left into Douglas fir forest with some oak and bay. In March, look for white zigadene, yellow buttercup, blue hound's tongue and purple iris.
0.2: Mining Claim. In 1863, prospectors dug for gold and silver.
0.3: Junction. Continue south on the Old Mine Road.
0.5: Junction with Dipsea Fire Road. Stay left on the road.
0.6: Junction #1. Follow the Dipsea Trail right. This trail is thought to be one of the oldest on the mountain. In 1905, it became part of the famous Dipsea race that covers 7.1 miles from downtown Mill Valley to Stinson Beach.
1.3: Junction #2. Take the Dipsea Trail right towards Stinson Beach.
1.4: Fence. Bear right. The trail drops down through luxuriant growth kept moist by winter rain and summer fog. Ahead, the trail drops so steeply that it's hard to believe that 1,500 Dipsea runners plunge through here at full speed each June.
2.0: Junction #3 and bridge. Cross the bridge, go right on the Steep Ravine Trail and enjoy the finest scenery on Mount Tamalpais. Steep Ravine offers spectacular redwoods, ferns, mosses, berries, tumbled trees, wooden bridges, quiet pools and cascading waterfalls.
2.4: Notched Redwood. A large redwood lying across the trail is notched to allow passage. As you duck, look for white fairy bells.
2.8: Ladder. Webb Creek is squeezed by large boulders. The only way up is to climb a 10 foot ladder.
3.6: Back at Pantoll with camping sites, restrooms, picnic tables and water.
Distance: 4.1 miles ~~ Shaded: 60%.
Elevation Change: 600 feet.
When To Go:
Good any cool, clear day, best February to April. This is a good sunshine hike mostly through chaparral, first climbing to the Mountain Theater, then to West Point Inn and back.
0.0: Start at the Bootjack Camp parking lot. Take the signed Bootjack Trail towards the Mountain Theater. Beyond the picnic area, two trails start uphill. Take the right trail and clim into oak-bay woodland.
0.2: Junction #1 with Old Stage Road. In the early 1900s, a stage coach made a daily run from West Point Inn to Stinson Beach. Our hike just crosses the road. Go left on the road 20 feet, then right 20 feet, then left again to continue on the Bootjack Trail. In early spring, look for blue hound's tongue, whit milkmaids and purple iris.
0.7: Junction and Mountain Theater. Turn right at the junction and head towards the theater. Go up to the top of the theater to enjoy a unique setting and view. This natural amphitheater has been the site of spring plays since 1913. To continue the hike, go across the top to the northeast corner of the theater.
The first Mountain Play "Abraham and Isaac" at the Mountain Theater drew 1,200 spectators in 1913. Congressman William Kent donated the theater site to the Mountain Play Association in 1915 as a memorial to his friend and business partner Mr. Sidney Cushing. Cushing, for whom the theater is now named was the prime mover behind the Mount Tamalpais Railway.
The present stone-seat amphitheater was constructed by the Civilian Conservaton Corps (CCC) in the 1930's based on a design by Emerson Knight. As condition for the CCC's involvement, the 7-acre site was dedicated to the State Park. The Stone blocks, weighing up to two tons, were quarried else where on Mount Tam, brought by truck, then placed in position using a cable and winch system. There are 40 rows of seats, each 1,000 feet long. They are invariably filled to capacity durng Mountain Play weekends in May and June.
0.8: Junction #2. Take the Rock Spring trail towards West Point Inn. This south-facing trail gradually descends through chaparral and wooded ravines. Watch for orange monkey flower, tree poppy, blue-eyed grass, white Oakland star tulip and red Indian warrior.
1.4: Rocky knoll. Great views to San Francisco and the East Bay.
2.3: West Point Inn. Water, restrooms and beverages are available on most weekends. A pancake breakfast is served once a month from May to September in this glorious setting. To continue the hike, take the signed Nora Trail in front of the picnic area.
2.8: Junction #3. Take the Matt Davis Trail right over the bridge, out of the redwoods, and into a mixture of oak, huckleberry, manzanita and chamise with occasional Douglas fir and bay trees.
3.3: Controlled burn area. The last major fire on the Mountain was in 1945. Now, controlled burns are necessary to reduce the fire danger.
3.7: Bridge. The trail enters a ravine, crosses a bridge on Rattlesnake Creek, then goes up a rockey slope.
4.1: Back at Bootjack Camp picnic area with restroom, picnic tables and water.
Distance: 3.5 miles ~~ Shaded: 90%.
Elevation Change: 500 feet.
When To Go:
Good anytime, best in early spring. This is a good hike exploring the dense woods east of the Pantoll Ranger Station Trail Head. Cardiac Hill on the Dipsea Trail provides vistas and wild flowers.
0.0: Start at the Bootjack Camp parking lot. Cross the highway and take the signed Bootjack Trail towards Van Wyck Meadow. The trail drops steeply down past Douglas fir and bay into redwood forest. In early spring, look for white milkmaids and blue hound's tongue.
0.1: Junction with Alpine Trail. Bear left to cross two small bridges ahead. Watch for white fairy bells and pink trillium.
0.4: Junction #1. Just past the bench and western azalea shrubs, continue right on the Bootjack Trail. The trail goes along side moss-covered boulders, then down past a brown sandstone slab.
0.5: Junction and Van Wyck Meadow. Take the signed TCC Trail right across the creek and into redwoods. The TCC Trail was built in 1918 and named for the Tamalpais Conservation Club, often called the "Guardians of the Mountain" for their conservation activities.
1.0: Manzanita. Notice the dead manzanitas from an old chaparral community. Now, berns and huckleberry lie under the conifers.
1.9: Junction #2 with Stapelveldt Trail. First go left, then right to take the signed TCC Trail towards the Dipsea Trail.
2.3: Junction. Take the Dipsea Trail right uphill.
2.4: Junction #3 and hill. Congratulations! You have just climbed "Cardiac", as it's called by the throng of Dipsea runners who climb 1200 feet out of Muir Woods each June. Go right on the road.
2.5: Junction with Old Mine Road. Bear right into Douglas fir and bay.
2.7: Junction. Take the Old Mine Trail right. Up ahead, an 1863 mining claim was staked out in search of gold and silver.
3.0: Pantoll Ranger Station Trail Head and Junction #4. Water, tables and restrooms. Continue past the Ranger Station and take the signed Alpine Trail just before the highway. The trail follows the road down hill.
3.4: Junction. Take the signed Bootjack Trail left.
3.5: Back at Bootjack Camp with water, picnic tables and restrooms.
Distance: 7.0 miles ~~ Shaded: 60%.
Elevation Change: 1600 feet ~~ Steep in places. Many stairs.
When To Go:
Good anytime, best in winter and spring. This strenuous, but spectacular hike, starts out on coastal hills, then descends to Stinson Beach and returns along scenic Steep Ravine.
0.0: From the Pantol parking lot, cross Panoramic Hwy and take the paved Pantoll Road 200 feet uphill to the signed Matt Davis Trail heading west towards Stinson Beach.
0.4: Webb Creek. Mosses, chain ferns, bays and Douglas fir provide a woodsy setting next to bedrock carved by Webb Creek.
1.2: Open hillsides. Great views to Stinson Beach and Bolinas Mesa. Look for checkerbloom and lupine among the spring wild flowers.
1.6: Junction #1. Take the signed Matt Davis Trail left toward Stinson Beach. The trail makes a gradual descent until it enters a Douglas fir forest where it drops more quickly. Lots of stairs.
3.5: Table Rock. At a fencepost under buckeye trees, take a spur trail 10 feet to the right to Table Rock. Great views of Bolinas Lagoon.
3.7: Bridge and Junction #2. Go left across the creek and bridge. Up ahead, bear to the right at the Y-junction.
4.0: Paved Street. The trail emerges on Belvedere Street. Continue west towards Shoreline Hwy. At the road, go left 100 yards, then take the first right to head past the Parkside Cafe to the Stinson Beach entrance.
4.3: Stinson Beach State Park. This Park has full facilities, grass, trees and shade, beach, swimming, drinking water, food and restrooms. It offers a great place for resting and picnicing, although it may be crowded on summer weekends. After enjoying the beach, retrace your steps to Shoreline Hwy.
4.6: Shoreline Hwy. Head south for 300 yards along the highway to take the famed Kipsea Trail towards the Steep Ravine which leads to the Pantoll Ranger Station.
5.0: Open hillsides. Take the most prominent trail across the "moors" up towards the steps and fire road. Continue across the fire road.
5.6: Bridge and Juntion #3. Take the signed Steep Revine Trail left. This is a magnificent area offering an inspiring setting of redwood trees, berns, mosses, creeks and waterfalls.
7.0: Back at the Pantol Ranger Station, parking area with tables, water and restrooms.
Distance: 4.7 miles ~~ Shaded: 30%.
Elevation Change: 1700 feet ~~ Very steep in places.
When To Go:
Best on cool, clear, calm winter days. This is the shortest and quickest hike to the top of Mount Tamalpais. It offers great exercise and spectacular views in all directions.
The Mountain Home Inn, which gives the area its name, was built in 1912 by a Swiss couple, Claus and Martha Meyer. The Inn had an Alpine flavor and fare, and was a popular dining sport for decades. Later, guest rooms and a beer garden were added. After several ownership changes, and a few years of being closed altogether, the Inn was completely remodeled in the early 1980's. Today it offers both light refreshments and elegant, full course dining, served indoors and outside on the splendid patio. Ten guest rooms, each with a spectacular view, are available for overnight stays.
0.0: Start at the Mountain Home Inn and head north across the highway and up the paved road towards the fire station. Take the Hogback Fire Road past the fire station and up past three water tanks.
0.3: Junction with the Matt Davis Trail. Continue up Hogback Trail, which gets steeper as it passes by manzanita, oak, madrone, bay and fir.
0.6: Junction #1. Take the Old Railroad Grade Trail left for a more gradual climb. The trail provides sweeping view in chaparral areas, then enter Fern Canyon with redwoods and occasional madrones.
1.0: Junction. Take the signed Fern Creek Trail on the right and start a steep climb up the right side of the creek.
1.2: Creek crossing and junction #2. Tall chain ferns mark an uncertain creek crossing. About 100 yards beyond the crossing, the trail enters a dense stand of bay trees, then veers right to pass a blue water tank and the signed Tavern Pump Trail. The hike continues on Fern Creek Trail up the left side of the creek along side a metal water pipe, then heads west out of the canyon.
1.7: Junction with Ridgecrest Road. Cross the road, take the stairs to the parking lot and head towards the picnic area and East Peak.
1.8: Junction. Take the signed Plankwalk Trail up the north side.
2.0: East Peak and a fire outlook station at 2571 feet. Stunning views!
2.2: East Peak parking lot. The small Visitor Center is usually open weekends from 12:00noon until 4:00pm. Take the one-way paved road to the west.
2.4: Two Junctions #3. Take the Old Railroad Grade left.
3.1: Junction. Take the signed Miller Trail left. The upper 200 yards of the trail is steep and dangerous with ruts and loose rocks. Once the trail enters an oak forest, the going is easier. Creek crossings ahead.
3.6: Junction. Take the Old Railroad Grade left to go downhill.
4.1: Junction #1. Take the Hogback Trail right for a steep descent.
4.7: Mountain Home Inn parking area with restrooms and water.
Distance: 3.2 miles ~~ Shaded: 60%.
Elevation Change: 600 feet ~~ One very steep section.
When To Go:
Good anytime, best January to March. This is a great hike that descends steeply into Fern Canyon, then gradually climbs back through chaparral and redwoods.
0.0: From the north end of the parking lot opposite the Mountain Home Inn, take the signed Trestle Trail down the stairs. At the road, head left past chaparral consisting of manzanita and chamise.
0.1: Gate and junction. Take the signed Panoramic Trail right past broom which may crowd the trail. Good views towards the ocean.
0.2 Junction #1. Take the Panoramic Trial (originally called the Ocean View Trail) right towards Muir Woods. Up ahead, Douglas fir has invaded and overgrown a chaparral area.
0.5: Junction. At the redwood grove, take the Lost Trail right. This trail was constructed in 1914 by members of the Tourist Club. It is very steep in places and was blocked (hence "lost") for a long time by a massive slide in the 1930's.
1.1: Junction and Bridge. Bear right down the 50 foot bridge and continue upstream along the left bank of Fern Creek. The hike came down the south-facing hill through fir and bay. Now it climbs the north-facing hill through redwoods. Notice how many redwoods are burned on the uphill side where forest debris or duff collected.
1.7: Plevin Cut and Camp Eastwood Junctions #2. At the first junction, go right up to Camp Eastwood, then go right again across the parking circle and take the signed Sierra Trail up the dirt road.
Camp Eastwood Road was originally graded to carry the tracks of the Mount Tamalpais & Muir Roads Railway. Gravity cars descended from the main line's Mesa Station, in the Double Bowknot, to the Muir Woods Inn above the valley floor. The return trip was by steam power. Construction began in 1906, was delayed by the great earthquake, and the first trains rolled in 1907. The upper half of the Road is now paved, bringing the occasional groups of scouts and others who camp at the Alice Eastwood Group Camp Site. The lower section of the road below the camp remains dirt.
Camp Eastwood Road begins at a gate south of Panoramic Highway just before (coming from Mill Valley) Mountian Home Inn. A sign by the gate indicates it is 1.4 miles to the Alice Eastwood Group Camp Site, and gives the Pantoll Ranger Station telephone number as the point of contact for camping reservations.
1.8: Water tank. At the water tank and bench, the road abruptly ends and a trail swings in and out of the tansition zone between two unlikely bedfellows, redwood and chaparral. Look for huckleberry bushes which ripen in late summer.
2.3: Chinquapin. The trail passes a small grove of chinquapin with 2 inch leaves, green on top and gold underneath.
2.4: Junction #3. Head right on Troop 80 Trail towards Mountain Home Inn.
2.8: Fern Creek and Junction. go left on the paved road.
3.2: Stairs. Take the stairs back up to the parking area.
Distance: 3.8 miles ~~ Shaded: 50%.
Elevation Change: 800 feet ~~ Heavy bicycle traffic on weekends.
When To Go:
Best on a clear day in fall, winter or spring. This often used route provides the shortest round trip to West Point Inn while offering great views east and south.
0.0: Start at the parking lot opposite the Mountain Home Inn. Cross the highway and take the paved road up towards the fire station. The road turns into Hogback Fire Road, also called the Throckmorton Fire Road, which once led hikers all the way to East Peak, but is now closed for erosion control beyond Old Rail road Grade.
0.3: Two water tanks and Junction. Continue up Hogback Fire Road, which gets steeper here, providing an opportunity to enjoy some great views.
0.5: Junction #1. Turn left on the Old Rail Road Grade which climbs gradually; the grade is never more than 7%. the entire 8.1 miles of road and track from downtown Mill Valley to East Peak took just six month to build in 1896.
0.9: Junction with Fern Creek Trail. Just past the main ravine, look for a small spring supporting chain ferns.
2.0: Junction #2 and West Point Inn. This historic rail road tavern, built in 1904 was a restaurant and stopover point for passengers taking the stage to Bolinas and Willow Camp (later renamed Stinson Beach). The Inn was called West Point Inn because this is the westernmost point of the Old Rail Road Grade. For many years, the cast of the Mountain Play stayed at the Inn the week before the play and walked to rehersals each morning.
To continue the hike, take the signed Nora Trail located in front of the Inn. This well maintained trail descends under a canopy of chaparral, then enters a grove of skinny redwoods.
2.5: Junction #3. Take the signed Matt Davis Trail left.
;3.5 Junction and water tanks. Take the Hogback Fire Road downhill right.
3.8 Back at the parking lot of Mountain Home Inn with water and
restrooms.
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Picnic Tables:
There is an
admission fee of $ 2.00 dollars per adult and parking is free. The picnic
tables are located at Muir Woods Beach which is 3 1/2 miles from Muir Woods
and there is no fee for using the picnic area. There is no camping sites
available at this National Monument.
Services:
A Visitors Center and self-guiding nature trails are provided. A gift shop near the entrance offers snacks and souvenirs. The nearest gasoline and nearest service stations are in Mill Valley 5 miles away.
Directions to Muir Woods:
John Muir Redwoods National Monument, is located 12 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge, is reached by taking U.S. Highway 101, then take California Highway 1 and then take Panoramic Highway to the "Four Corners" intersection, then make a left turn onto and down Muir Woods Road to the parking area. Roads to the Park are steep and winding, vehicles over 35 feet long are prohibited. No public transportation serves the Park, however, commercial tours are available from San Francisco.
Oddly, this busiest of Trails does not have a single, widely accepted name. the Erickson map labels it part of the Bootjack Trail. Olmsted leaves it nameless. Some Muir Woods staffers refer to it as the Man Trail. The newer Spur part of the Trail, on Redwood Creek's right bank between Bridges #1and #3, has also been called Nature Trail.
The asphalt-covered Muir Woods Trail begins under the newly restored entrance arch. There is no admission fee at present but donations are welcomed. On the right is the new 1989 Visitors Center, constructed on the style of the 1930's Works Progress Administration buildings. A ranger or volunteer will answer questions and dispense free park brochures, and the guide leaflets for $1.00 (one dollar) to the 10 stop Nature Trail which begins at Bridge #2. Inside, books, videios, maps and cards are sold; proceeds go to the Monument. There are maps and attractive interpretive signs along the way as well.
The prominent first redwood on the right stands 190 feet tall and is estimated at 500 ~ 800 years in age. Just beyond, a path on the right leads to a gift shop and cafeteria run by a concessionaire, restrooms and park offices. In a few more yards is Bridge #1, rebuilt in late 1993, across Redwood Creek. Traces of no fewer than 16 old bridges across Redwood Creek in Muir Woods have been uncovered.
Redwoods are, of course, the main attraction of this Muir Wood Trial. These long-lived monarchs have thick bark, up to 12 inches, which keeps out enemies such as insects and fungi. The bark also helps make redwoods exceptionally fire-resistant; many healthy redwoods still show evidence of the last great fire to sweep through the area in 1845. In winter, the tree's male cones release their clouds of pollen, imparting a golden cast to the area.
There is a water fountain beside a cross-cut section of a redwood. Just beyond, Ocean View Trail departs uphill to the right. Opposite is a plaque dedicating a redwood to Gifford Pinchot, first head of the National Forest Service. Ironically, Mr. Pinchot was called the "Friend of the Forest, Perservation of the Common-Wealth" which you can still see on the plaque to this day placed by the Sierra Club in 1910, but Mr. Pinchot was fast becoming the Sierra Club's and Mr. John Muir's bitter enemy as he supported damming of Hetch Hetchy in Yosemite, a project that the Sierra Club and Mr. Muir fervently opposed.
Just behind the Pinchot Tree is a double-trunked giant, the Emerson Tree. A plaque, still affixed to the fare side, visible to sharp-eyed observers from the Spur Trail on the opposite bank, was placed in 1903 to mark the 100th anniversary of the birth of Ralph Waldo Emerson. Jack London was among those attending the ceremony. It reads, "1803 Emerson 1903" and may be the oldest surviving plaque on Mount Tamalpais.
Across Bridge #2, the gently rolling Hillside Trail begins. It connects to Bridge #4, and offers a popular loop option. Here to is the start of the relatively new Nature Trail. Each of the 10 stops is marked by a number.
The bridges are good spots to look, in December and January, for two species of salmon (coho and steelhead) heading upstream to spawn although their numbers are down drastically from years past. The adult coho salmon never make it back. Only the small percentage of surviving young return after the ocean. After a few years in the Pacific they too return to Redwood Creek and complete their own life cycle. Steelhead, however, can spawn more than once.
Note the larege rocks along the creek bank. They were placed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930's to control erosion. By Bridge #3 is Cathedral Grove. Here in 1971, at Nature Trail stop #6, a 225 foot redwood fell, taking a second redwood down as well. The soil around its shallowroots had become overly compacted from visitor's feet and could no longer hold sufficient moisture. The incident led to the construction of the wood barriers that now line the entire Trail.
The Trail forks around
Cathedral Grove which contains some of the Monument's largest trees. Azaleas
grow beside the creek. On the right side a plaque marks where delegates
from around the world meeting in San Francisco to frame the United Nations
charter came on May 19, 1945. They were honoring President Franklin D.
Roosevelt, who had died a month earlier.
At .7 miles, Fern Canyon Trail also called Fern Creek Trail goes uphill to the right. One hundred yards up Fern Canyon trial is the famous Kent Tree, well worth a visit. Fern Canyon Trail also offers excellent loop options with Lost and Ocean View Trails or with Camp Eastwood Fire Road. About 50 yards past the junction, on the right, is an albino redwood tree. Note the pale foliage. Unable to photosynthesize, the albino relies on nourishment from the roots of an adjacent redwood.
In 50 more yards, on the left, a turnout marks the site of a cabin that stood from around 1885 to 1928. Ben Johnson lived there in the 1890's when he was gamekeeper for the Tamalpais Sportsmen's Club which hunted deer in the area. Just beyond, camp Eastwood Fire Road begins its climb to Mountain Home Inn.
Muir Woods Trail ends at Bridge #4 by the Monument's boundary. The unpaved trail straight ahead is Bootjack Trail which climbs all the way to the Mountain Theater. Ben Johnson Trail sets off left on its way to the Dipsea Trial. A few yards up on Ben Johnson Trail just over the bridge is the far end of Hillside Trail.
On the return, cross Redwood Creek at Bridge #3 to make a loop back on the right bank spur. Some 15 yards before Bridge #2, look on the right for a redwood with a particularly large burl, about 20 feet up. Burls which can weigh up to 50 tons each, are swollen masses of undeveloped buds, an alternative, non-sexual method of reproduction to seeds. Why some redwoods grow burls and other don't is till not well understood.
At Bridge #2 is Hillside trail and the Bohemian Grove. The Bohemian Club had its annual summer camp here in 1892. The members quickly decided that Muir Woods was too cold so they purchased a permanent camp which draws some of the nation's most prominent leaders each summer in Sonoma County. In the Bohemian Grove is Muir Wood's tallest tree, a redwood measured at 252 feet.
A plaque marks
the Bicentennial Tree, estimated to have sprouted in 1776. The rewood is
now a full-fledged giant. Just before Bridge #1, the route passes through
a downed redwood. It fell across the Trail in April 1993 and blocked passage
for more than a years. The Trail was slightly rerouted. The loop ends back
at Bridge #1.
The Park is open year round from 8:00am to sunset. For information, write or call:
Site Manager
Muir Woods National Monument
Mill Valley, CA 94941
(415) 388-2595 ~ TTD 556-2766
While visiting John Muir Woods at Mount Tamalpais you may want to take the following hiking trails:
Distance: 1.9 miles ~~ Shaded: 100%.
Elevation Change: 200 feet.
When To Go:
Excellent anytime, best in Spring for trillium. This Muir Woods hike is the most heavily traveled trail on Mount Tam as it winds along the floor of a beautiful virgin redwood forest.
0.0: Start at the Muir Woods parking lot. Follow the signed Main Trail along the right side of Redwood Creek. The trail has several nature information signs describing the redwood forest. Also, you can pick up a brochure describing nature points along the way.
0.5: Cathedral Grove. A beautiful redwood grove dedicated to the founding of the United Nations in San Francisco in 1945. Tanoak and western swordfern are the dominant shrub-like growth under the redwood canopy, while redwood sorrel provides most of the ground cover. Ahead, the light green leaves of western azalea, hazel and big leaf maple stand out against the dark-green, redwood background.
0.7: Junction with Fern Creek. Continue left. Notice how some redwoods have an enormous number of sprouts growing out of the base, while others have a grey-green lichen growth on the bark.
0.9: Park boundary and Junction #1. Bear left, cross the bridge and head up to Hillside Junction. Go left again and climb up the Hillside Trail.
1.1: Ravine. the first of three small, picturesque ravines. Ferns, mosses, pink trillium, sorrel and the striking clintonia lie along the bank. Notice the large Douglas fir just past the streambed. Its bark differs from nearby redwoods in texture and in the moss covering. Redwoods often have lichens, but seldom mosses.
1.6: Junction. The Hillside Trail gently descends to the canyon floor. Stay right to enter Bohemian Grove with some of the tallest trees in the Park. Cathedral and Bohemian Groves contain Muir Woods' largest redwood trees. The tallest is 260 feet, the thickest is nearly 16 feet across. The oldest redwood tree here is at least 1,000 years old. Most of the mature trees are between 500 and 800 years old. The world's tallest living thing is a Coastal Redwood located in Redwood National Park. Discovered by the National Geographic Society in 1963, it now measures 367.8 feet tall. The closely related Giant Sequoia grows larger in diameter and greater in bulk but not nearly as tall. Ahead at the bridge, look for spawning silver salmon and steelhead trout in wintertime.
1.8: Snack shop, gift shop and restroom facilities.
1.9: Parking lot. Continue walking along the creek to see several large red alders in a riparian setting. Further downstream, across from the highway entrance, notice the incredibly tangled buckeye trees with moss-covered trunks criss-crossing every which way.
Distance: 3.6 miles ~~ Shaded: 100%.
Elevation Change: 300 feet.
When To Go:
Excellent anytime, best in February and March. This is a great redwood forest hike that leaves the crowded Muir Woods floor to explore Fern Canyon and Camp Alice Eastwood.
0.0: Start at the Muir Woods parking lot. Follow the signed Main Trail along the right side of Redwood Creek.
0.7: Junction. Take the Fern Canyon Trail right along the small creek. Watch for white trillium in March and the striking pink clintonia in April.
1.1: Junction #1 and Bridge. Bear left down the 50 foot picturesque woodplank bridge. Continue upstreamon the left bank to another junction. Then, either take the shortcut up the stairs, or go slightly further upstream. Look for iris as the trail clims through the redwoods.
1.8: Plevin Cut and Camp Alice Eastwood Junctions #2. At the first junction, continue right to the parking area. The camp, named for Alice Eastwood, avid botanist, writer and hiker, was dedicated in 1949 on her 90th birthday.
This was also the location of the Muir Woods Inn, which served visitors who coasted down on gravity cars in the early 1900s.
From the camp, cross the paved parking circle to Camp Eastwood Road signed to Muir Woods, the road starts downhill passing through broom, madrone, manzania, oak and yerba santa.
2.5: Junction #3. Take the signed Bootjack Spur Trail right past a large lichen-covered redwood tree down to Redwood Creek, then go left and head downstream. Look for spawning salmon in late winter.
2.7: Junction and park boundary. Continue along the creek.
3.1: Bridge and Cathedral Grove. Cross the bridge to return down the right side of Redwood Creek. Look for redwood burls. Further ahead lies Bohmian Grove with some of the tallest trees in the park.
3.6: Snack shop, gift shop, restroom facilities and parking lot.
The following trails will lead you out of the Muir Woods Canyon. Ben Johnson Trail passes through one of the quietest, deepest, wettest forest on Mount Tamalpais. It plays a role in several wonderful loop walks out of Muir Woods.
To reach the Ben Johnson Trail Head, take the asphalt-coverd Muir Woods Trail to its end at Bridge #4 (the fourth bridge over Redwood Creek from the main entrance). Bootjack Trail continues straight ahead while Ben Johnson rises, across the bridge to the left. A signed post points the way towards the Dipsea Trail, pionts the way towards the Stapelveldt Trail leading towards the Pantoll Ranger Station Trail Head, and also points the way towards the Stinson Beach Trail.
Just on the other side of the Bridge #4, to the left, is Hillside Trail which connects to Bridge #2. Ben Johnson Trail veers right steeply uphill.
Ben Johnson Trail climb is a stiff one, but the certain coolness of the woods brings relief. Steps carry the trail up over the steepest early part and the up hill climb eases a bit above.
Ben Johnson crosses several streambeds, two of them over redwood trunk bridges. The redwoods and Douglas firs are enormous; several of the former, opened by fire, can be entered. Huckleberry is abundant.
A welcome bench is embedded in the hillside. Just beyond, a small clearing in the tree canopy permits glimpses of Throckmorton Ridge. Higher, a downed redwood took out another bench and forces a light detour.
After a mile of climbing, Ben Johnson Trail meets a signed, three-way junction. A pause at the sign bench here in the deep woods is obligatory. Straight ahead is the start of Stapelveldt Trail rising and leading towards the Pantoll Ranger Station Trail Head. Ben Johnson Trail continues left, following the sign to the Dipsea Trail. Newer switchbacks, bordered by fences, carry it uphill, another well-wooded quarter-mile. Ben Johnson Trial then crests a ridge. It crosses Deer Park fire road in the magical area known as Deer Park. To the left is a magnificent stand of virgin redwoods. Just to the right is the fire road's junction with the Dipsea Trail. Ben Johnson Trail goes another 20 yards straight ahead to end at the Dipsea Trail.
Mr. Ben Johnson
was once a superintendent of Samuel Throckmorton's southern Marin dairy
ranches. He apparently also worked at the San Francisco Mint. He then moved
to a cabin just downstream from the present Bridge #4. There is an 1892
reference to Redwood Creek being referred to as "Johnson's Creek." Johnson
built the Trail that carries his name around 1900, when he became the gamekeeper
for the Tamalpais Sportsman's Club. the Trail provided hunters with access
to the club's extensive lands higher on Mount Tam. After the Mountain's
bears, elk and mountain lions had been hunted out by the 1880's, deer and
quail remained as quarry. Johnson died of tuberculosis in 1904 at the age
of 51. The Trail has been known also as Dead Horse Trail and as Sequoia
Trail.
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