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Articles
Buying a table saw
Marc Phillips
This is easily the most asked question on any of the many woodworking forums. The problem is, most of the answers a person receives to a "What tablesaw should I buy" question or a "I was considering a (make/model), whaddya think?" question will be of the "I have a (model/make) and I like it" or "I had one of those once, it was junk" type of answer. What does that tell you? Well, not much really. You have no idea of the responders experience or how the saw was used, and for what, etc.
So what do you do to really get help figuring out what saw to get?
The answer is, in my humble opinion, to FIRST stop and think about WHAT you are planning on using a tablesaw for!
Sound silly or too simple?. Consider this:
Tablesaws, as in all things (not just all tools) selling today are designed and sold with a HUGE influence by people that are professional Marketers and Sales Representatives with an eye for designing a tool for a particular "niche" or market, so that sales are maximized.
Makes sense right?
YOUR job, when trying to figure out which saw you want/need, is to find the saw that was designed with YOUR needs (as closely as possible) in mind! So... stop and think... WHAT am I going to do with my new saw?
Ask yourself, and write down your answers to these questions.
 WHAT you want to build?
 What type and size/thickness of raw materials (lumber) will you be dealing with?
 Is portability an issue? How so?... Will you be taking the saw to a jobsite?, or just rolling it around on wheels?
 How much space do you have available?
 How much use will the saw get?
Once you've figured out as best you can WHAT you want to build, the type and size of the raw materials that you'll be dealing with, where you're going to do this woodworking, how much space you'll need, etc., then it's time to find the saw that BEST MATCHES YOUR NEEDS.
Let's look at the following saws and types of saws.
Benchtop/Portable saws.
These saws were designed and built for jobsite work... like finish/trim carpentry at a construction site. This means that the Primary design features are going to be
Ruggedness
Lightweight
Fast setup/teardown
Cheap price
These saws are also marketed directly to the First Time/Impulse Buyer due to their low price. They use a Universal motor because of weight and cost, and most are direct drive which makes it possible to make the saw smaller and cheaper in price, but direct drive runs rougher and is not as long lasting as belt drive. Universal motors are the same type of motors found in todays Routers, and are designed for failrly short durations of use as opposed to cutting all day/everyday as in a cabinet shop.
Some of the features/accessories of a benchtop saw are: 
 Table extensions 
 Movable rails
 Dust collection hook-ups 
Contractor saws
These saws were designed for more heavy duty work, and there are such a wide range of saws today that are called "contractor saws" that this classification of saws needs to be further broken down to be comprehensible.
Generally, these saws feature a cast iron top, 1 or 2 cast iron "wings" (table extensions), A fence system at several different levels of quality, a splayed sheet metal legs/stand and an induction motor that hangs out the back of the saw and is connected to the arbor via a pulley and long belt. These long belts and pulleys tend to cause vibration, and this is why you see such huge sales of "Link Belts" and machined steel pulleys that help to eliminate the vibration for woodworkers who are not "contractors" and are wanting to do furniture or other "fine" woodworking.
The basic variables that you'll be dealing with (NOT counting Quality) are:
 Size of Table
 How many, and what type of Wings (solid or open grid)
 Miter slot - standard size so after market accessories will work? "T" type of slot?
 Horsepower
 Fence system 
 Included accessories such as
 Router Tables as extensions
 Mobile base
 Included blades
 Included Dust collection
Other factors to consider are:
 Type of switch 
 Voltage of motor (110v or 220v)
 Size/construction of handwheels
 Overall "beefiness" of trunions, arbor, blade elevating/tilting mechanisims... "the guts" eh..
Quality factors/ranges basically are:
 Quality of cast iron i.e. was it "aged", flatness, smoothness, mating of wings to main table etc.
 Switch - from a little flip up/down cheap toggle to a large magnetic switch
 Motor - Cheap mainland china made to an American made Baldor TEFC (Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled)
 Fit and finish - basically, how well everything matches up and how smooth the parts are
"Stealth Factors" are what I call the factors that influence the buying decision, but remain hidden and unseen or talked about... They include:
 The Buddy Factor - If you're going to have buddies see this new saw, or your neighbor has a Unisaw, you're going to lean toward a bigger more powerful saw whether it's "overkill" for your needs or not.
 Color factor - Some saws are just plain painted a butt-ugly color and this makes you think it's a lower quality saw... whether it is or isn't doesn't matter, it's what YOU think that matters.
 Ego Factor - Face it... we buy a lot of things based on this... if we didn't, we'd all drive Yugos and Corvette's wouldn't have sold at all.
Cabinet Saws
Designed for commercial use, these saws are big, strong, heavy and designed for years and years of use and then they can be passed on to another generation for more use.
The "Standards" for a typical cabinet saw are:
 Large cast iron table and wings
 Heavy enclosed stand/cabinet 
 3-5 horsepower 220v TEFC motor connected to the arbor via 3 short V-Belts
 Large beefy trunions. arbor, bearings, and "guts"
Hybrid Saws
Right now there are 3 tablesaws that I would incude in the category "Hybrid", meaning a cross between two or more other categories.
 The DeWalt DW746 Contractor Table Saw 
 The Jet JWSS-10PF "Supersaw"
 The Ryobi BT3100
I'll have to interject some "personal" opinion here a lot more heavy handed than I want to, but the Jet and the DeWalt have price tags that put them into, and beyond the prices of full size cabinet saws, and I personally haven't a clue what "niche" these saws were designed for. If you're going to spend $1500.00, wouldn't you want a 3HP cabinet saw instead of a 1 1/2HP contractors saw? I've got to assume that these were desgned for people who buy a Hummer for $100,000.00.
The Ryobi BT3100 is a hybrid in that, size wise, is about the same as some benchtops saws, but it has some unique differences that set this saw well apart from both Contactor and Benchtop table saws.
The main differences/features that set the Ryobi BT3100 apart are:
 Dual Belt drive instead of direct drive
 An accessory table that attaches to the rails as a wing is included as standard equipment... again, this is normally an add-on feature. This accessory table is easily convertible to an onboard router table with the accessories provided in the Ryobi Router Kit, #4950300.
 Excellent dust collection, utilizing a blade shroud as part of the blade guard.
 A high quality accurate fence system.
 Rails that slide left/right to handle larger stock
 A good Freud combo blade
 2 year warranty
 With a $299 price tag and an excellent online forum dedicated to just BT3X00 users, this is a saw to consider if it meets your needs.
A couple of other comments from yours truly....
When you post a question on one of the Woodworking Forums, be as specific as you can with your question.
Here's the deal... EVERYONE likes their tablesaw! So you get a lot of responses like "I have a (make/model) and I love it". Stop and ask yourself, Does that person and you have the same needs?... does he have any woodworking experience? You don't know?... of course you don't know... THAT'S my point!
I read this typical response so many times it's astounding... I'd love to read once in a while that "I love my (insert make/model) because it has (feature) and (feature) and (quality) and, and, and... Now that'd be useful eh?
Another important point is; The fence that comes with the tablesaw is VERY important! The good news is, nearly all the major players are great, and there's just differences in features, design, and price. I can't go into fences here, because that's a subject all by itself!
Summary
Here it is, in a nutshell:
Buy a benchtop if:
 You need portability and will be taking the saw to a job site or...
 Cannot afford a BT3100
Buy the Ryobi BT3100 if:
 You can only afford a benchtop, and you want an excellent, highly versatile saw for a home workshop
Buy a Contractor Saw if:
 You will be working with heavier stock or sheet goods and/or
 You need a saw that's going to be run for a long time each day and/or
 You cannot afford a Cabinet Saw and/or
 You're not really sure if this is a lifetime hobby for you
 "Stealth Factors" wont let you buy a Benchtop or a Ryobi BT3100
Buy a Cabinet Saw if:
 all the reasons above for a Contractors saw and
 You want/need more power
 You want a smoother saw
 "Stealth Factors" wont let you "settle" for a Contractors saw
 You know you're going to be woodworking for the rest of your life.
I hope this helps give you the basics, and provides you with the ammo you need to shop and ask questions more effectively. Keep in mind, these are my opinions... your mileage may vary.
Thanks!
Marc Phillips
Custom WoodCrafts
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