Before you see John Travolta, you see a
                                 beanstalk-a big, green snake of papier-mache
                                 that sprouts from the floor, curls around the
                                 beams, and rises all the way to the roof. u
                                 Take your eyes off the beanstalk and
                                 everything is laid out before you: You're in a
                                 playroom. A playroom of such opulence that it
                                 floods every inch of Travolta's attic like a mad
                                 vision from the mind of Willy Wonka. u You see
                                 the hull of an airplane, which curves out from
                                 the wall to form a bedroom. You see a
                                 supermarket stand. A seesaw. A giant blue
                                 bouncing ball. A tree house. An ice cream
                                 parlor. A mock school. A kiddie kitchen. Rivers
                                 of toys. A cowboy room, a princess room, a
                                 Peter Pan room with glow-in- the-dark stars on
                                 the ceiling.

                                 "This is Wonderland," proclaims Travolta's wife
                                 of three years, actress Kelly Preston, 32. "John
                                 and I got together and wondered what all of
                                 our fantasies were as kids."

                                 Travolta is still asleep somewhere in this Maine
                                 mansion-he goes to bed in the wee hours of
                                 morning and tends to slumber past noon-but
                                 his son, Jett, is wide awake, darting from one
                                 fantasy to another. Jett winds up at the
                                 theater, a full-scale proscenium stage with a
                                 dressing room, where a waiter delivers the
                                 2-year-old a plate of six tempura shrimp.

                                 "This is Jett's favorite," says Preston. "Mmm,
                                 mmm. These are a good batch."

                                 You are dazzled, but you have not witnessed
                                 the grand finale. Because at this very moment,
                                 John Travolta pops out of the floor. Literally. A
                                 trapdoor opens, and Travolta's head appears.

                                 "How ya doin'?" he says. He wears black jeans
                                 and a black long-sleeved T, which, in tandem,
                                 look like pajamas. The trim, pelvis-pumping
                                 torpedo who glided across the dance floors of
                                 Saturday Night Fever and Grease is 40 now. His
                                 shirt can't hide the slight parabola of a belly
                                 and his sideburns bear more than a tinge of
                                 gray, but his eyes beam with the same cobalt
                                 blue transparency that made America flush
                                 with disco fever in the '70s.

                                 While Jett giggles and shrieks, Travolta grabs
                                 his son adoringly and carries him up and down
                                 the secret ladder.

                                 This, to answer the inevitable question, is
                                 where John Travolta has been all these years.
                                 A star of imperial magnitude in the '70s-a man
                                 who launched crazes, not mere trends-Travolta
                                 watched his status in the late '80s shrivel to
                                 the point where he was stuck in quick-to-video
                                 trifles like The Experts and upstaged by babies
                                 and dogs in the Look Who's Talking series.
                                 Sure, the first of those baby flicks grossed a
                                 plenty-respectable $140 million, but as far as
                                 the cultural cognoscenti were concerned,
                                 Travolta had retired to Wonderland, and his blip
                                 had bounced off the radar long ago.

                                 Then, metaphorically speaking, he popped out
                                 of the floor. Travolta's comeback this year has
                                 been that swift and sudden. The script:

                                 (1) With Miramax skeptical of Travolta's star
                                 voltage, youngblood filmmaker Quentin
                                 Tarantino battles to cast the actor in Pulp
                                 Fiction, a funky, supercharged saga of love,
                                 honor, and sadism among Los Angeles
                                 scumbuckets.

                                 (2) The film, starring Travolta as Vincent
                                 Vega-a hit man with a bad haircut and a taste
                                 for heroin-scores the Palme d'Or at the Cannes
                                 Film Festival in May.

                                 (3) The world realizes what the director knew
                                 all along. "He's one of the best stars Hollywood
                                 has ever produced," Tarantino gushes.
                                 "Reporters ask me, 'So what made you choose
                                 him? He's not really that hot anymore!' Look,
                                 I've walked down the street with some big
                                 stars, okay? I cannot walk two feet down the
                                 street with John Travolta. People stop their
                                 cars. People are clawing all over him and stuff.
                                 It's like, he's a movie star!"

                                 . Truth be told, all this yakety-yak about who's
                                 hot and who's cold is like whistling in the wind
                                 to John Travolta, who knows stardom so well it
                                 haunts him. He doesn't mind being an icon, he
                                 says, "because I wouldn't know what it's like at
                                 this point not to be one."

                                 He dreams about it. There is a scene in Pulp
                                 Fiction where Vincent Vega takes Uma
                                 Thurman to Jack Rabbit Slim's, a gaudy diner
                                 where the waiters look exactly like the famous
                                 faces of the '50s: Elvis Presley, Buddy Holly,
                                 Marilyn Monroe, Ed Sullivan. "I had an interesting dream," Travolta says,
                                 unspooling his subconscious like a ball of string.
                                 "I was shooting the Jack Rabbit Slim's scene
                                 with Uma Thurman, and Quentin yelled cut.
                                 They left, the crew left, and I was left with
                                 Marilyn Monroe, James Dean, Elvis Presley-all
                                 these icons of the '50s and '60s. And I
                                 thought, 'My goodness, this was a setup. Am I
                                 dead? Is this where we all go? The icon
                                 heaven?' I remember feeling a sense of grief
                                 come over me, almost a whimpering kind of
                                 feeling. It's like, 'I'm not going to see anyone I
                                 know anymore. I mean, this is wonderful to be
                                 with all these great folks, but I didn't think the
                                 scene was designed to leave me here!'"

                                 When Travolta says this, he is sitting at the
                                 end of a banquet table as long as an airstrip.
                                 It's time for lunch. Once a Jersey boy with the
                                 cocky strut of someone who has nothing,
                                 Travolta now slouches like a man who has
                                 everything. He has grown into a gourmand of
                                 the first order. Assistants whisk in and out of
                                 the kitchen, bringing him course after
                                 course-brimming bowls of broccoli soup,
                                 delicate mounds of crabmeat salad, chicken
                                 breasts baked in a sesame-seed crust, moist
                                 slices of lemon cake, ziggurats of cookies-while