Article by Jackie Wardill

Here is an extract from the travel leaflet that enticed us onto this fantastic trip.

The Northern Lights have filled people with wonder and inspired artists; they have frightened people to think that the end is at hand. More exact explanations of the phenomenon could not be given until modern particle physics and knowledge about details of the Earth's magnetosphere, based on measurements from satellites, were developed. When the Northern lights are seen over Tromsø it happens in a pattern which varies considerably. The outbursts start with a phosphorescent glow over the horizon in the north west. The glow dies out and comes back and then an arch is lit. It drifts up over the sky and new arches are lit and follow the first one. Small waves and curls move along the arches.Then, within a few minutes, a dramatic change is seen in the sky. A hailstorm of particles hits the upper atmosphere in what is called an aurora sub-storm. Rays of light shoot down from space, forming draperies that spread all over the sky. They remind us of draperies or curtains, which are flickering in the wind. One can see a violet and a red trimming at the upper and lower ends. The curtains of light disappear and form again with new rays of light shooting down from space. We can see rays going out in all directions, forming what is called an auroral corona. The bands are spread out, disintegrating in a diffuse light all over the sky.

I went with Cathy and a couple of her friends whom she had arm-twisted into getting up at 4.45am. The first problem was controlling the Yaks! These are Cathy's calf length long haired boots. At one point, we considered attaching them to a dog lead and seeing how many people stopped to pat them!
Eventually we convinced customs that we were not smuggling livestock and took off. The flight path from Manchester was over Leeds, on to Oslo and north over Finland. I was slightly disappointed since I had hoped to fly over the fjorded coastline of Norway. The weather was clear which gave us stunning views of mountains, both snowy and otherwise, lakes, forests and a few fjords before we landed.
Tromsø is mainly an island, connected to the mainland by a bridge, on very high pillars, as well as two tunnels. The city is nearly 70^oN, putting it about 300 km north of the Arctic Circle and 2,200 km south of the North Pole. The population is 57,000 and growing. The World's most northerly university is here and Tromsø is one of the best locations for viewing the Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights, with February as the best time.
The trip was organised by Patrick Moore, with Dr John Baruch (Bradford University) and Rod Tippett (formerly a member of our Society). The original flight was scheduled for 9/2/99 and proved so popular that a second flight was arranged for 10/2/99, with Rod Hine (Bradford Astronomical Society). Patrick Moore stayed in Tromsø overnight and returned with our flight on the 10^th.
We had been warned about the temperature - the average at this time of year is -3.5^oC, wear a woolly hat, woollen gloves, warm jacket, long Johns and good footwear with woollen socks. When we arrived at 11.30am, the temperature was -11^oC and the Sun was shining. Since Sunset was at 3.15pm, it was completely dark by 5pm. The surfaces were icy although some pavements and the roads had been cleared. It was hard to make a snowball, it was too dry - ask Cathy! It was crisp and most invigorating, as long as you kept moving.
Our Norwegian guide described the Sunless winter days as like "living in a sack". She said how tired it made people. There is a special 'Sun Day' (on about 10^th Jan) when the Sun first appears on the horizon at noon. The local children make model Suns, dress up and go out to witness the event. It is a real celebration. From about May through to July, it becomes the famous 'land of the midnight Sun'.
We boarded our tour buses and the first stop was the 'Polaria Experience'. This is a new aquarium with arctic fish, benthic (bottom dwelling) fauna and bearded seals. It was interesting seeing the seals swimming from below, I wanted to reach up and tickle tummies! We were also shown a beautiful panoramic film 'Svalbard Arctic Wilderness' in widescreen format. A tour of the city then followed. I saw only one brick house; all of the rest were either wooden or concrete. We also saw the beautiful cathedral, a statue to Roald Amundsen and fishermen lost at sea, buildings old and new and Spar! Next stop was lunch, salads and naturally, plenty of seafood. The next stop was the Northern Lights Planetarium, which opened in 1989. Our viewings were mainly the Aurorae after an opening address by Patrick Moore. I have to admit that I was so tired by this time that I struggled to stay awake, but it was worth the effort.
Our final visit was via the mountain cable car to see the spectacular views of Tromsø and hopefully the night sky. We just managed to glimpse the southern aspect of Orion when, yes you've guessed it, the dreaded cloud descended!
However, shortly after take off from Tromsø, our pilot said "there's an aurora on our right hand side, I'll turn the plane round soon so that those on the left hand side can see it. Make sure you change seats so that everyone has the chance to see it". I have to say that at first I was disappointed - it just seemed to be a greenish glow below me in the sky, quite static. After a while, I could see it in the distance, the familiar arches and rays, quite ghostly and mysterious. Of course, I now want to see it from below, drifting and curling.
We landed about ½ hour early due to a favourable tail wind. After an interminable wait to disembark, we discovered the reason. The pilot informed us that there were no steps for the plane, then the steps had been found but they were broken, then the only available steps were for the rear of the plane. The first 5 rows were asked to remain in their seats whilst the rest of the passengers used the steps. When we enquired, the stewardess informed us that it was because "the plane may tip up"! Well I've heard it all now, or so I thought. I have it on good authority (from my husband Cyril who is a pilot) that planes are so finely balanced that some weight must be kept forward of the main wheels in order to counterbalance any excess weight at the back.
So - a lovely day with much to see, some sights missed due to weather but WE'VE SEEN IT!
REFERENCES:
Images of the Cosmos (OU); Weather (Collins); University of Tromsø (in the travel leaflet).

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