Made by Brian M


Parts List
All parts were found at Wal-mart(**W), Lowes(**L), and Radio Shack(**R).
1 3/8" bolt 3" long with a 7/16" head (if you can find a lagbolt with a 7/16" head use that..I can't find one)**L
1 1-1/4" EMT box connector set**L
1 1-1/4" compression connector**L
6 5/8" zinc flat washers**L
1 3/8" x 2" steel pipe nipple**L
1 ballcock shank washer**L(toilet part)
1 1-3/8" wood curtain rod**L
1 Garrity Tuff Lite flashlight (2-cell)**L
1 Popular Mechanics swivel aerator (pm30862)**W
2 10-packs of Popular Mechanics hose washers (pm93114)
[only 12 are need for this project]**W
2 small o-rings**L
2 large o-rings**L
1 eye-screw**L
black paint**W
black masking tape**W
black construction paper**W small red lamp (radio shack cat. #272-345)**R
small black wood screw**L
several very small o-rings (to act as spacers between the bolt and the pipe nipple)**L
6 small self-adhesive black rubber bumpers (got mine at radio shack #64-2346)**R

Instructions

Fins Section
Pic-P
Cut a 7-5/16" section of the wooden rod
Pic-Z

In one end drill a 3/8" hole about an 1-1/4" deep for the bolt and in the other end drill a small pilot hole for the eye-screw. Paint the eye-screw end of the wood rod black.
Pic-A,L,FF

Take the steel pipe nipple and place 6 flat washers and 10 hose washer over it, starting with a flat washer then 2 hose washer then another flat washer and so on, ending with a flat washer. When done the two flat washers on the ends should be flush with the ends of the pipe nipple. Getting the hose washers on can be a pain...I recommend bracing the pipe nipple on flat surface and using a flat washer press them down with. Don't worry if the flat washers keep falling off, they will until the assembly is bolted in place.
Pic-M,N,O,Y,S,LL

Thread a hose washer on the bolt followed by the fin assembly followed by another hose washer. The two hose washers added in this step are for stability and do not go over the pipe nipple (there should be no room for them anyway). Now screw the bolt, with the washers and fin assembly into the wooden rod. If you need more grip from the threads of the bolt to the wood, you can wrap them in duct tape.

Pic-Q,R (these pictures are shown without the hose washers and flat washers of the fins assembly in place for clarity, though they will need to be in place before this step)
Control Collar
Pic-NN
Take the box connector and remove the locknut and the screws.
Pic-K

Use the construction paper and duct tape to build up the section of the wooden rod that will lie under the control collar. The non-threaded of the box connector should rest against the lowest flat washer. Due to the interior shape of the collar there will be two different thicknesses. Be patient building up the thickness, doing one layer at a time to be sure that the collar will centered properly around the wooden rod. Place a large o-ring over the threads of the collar and then replace the locknut.
Pic-G,T,MM
When the collar assembly is firmly in place, screw the small wood screw into one screw hole and place the lamp into the other. The screw should penetrate the wooden rod below. You may want to use some adhesive on the lamp.
Pic-BB,C
The Grip
Pic-OO

Cut the grip off of the Tuff Lite with a hobby knife. It will be about 5". Now build up the wooden rod using the construction paper until the grip fits snugly. Since about 1/2" of the grip will rest over the threads of the pommel assembly and since measurements will vary from saber to saber I strongly recommend going ahead building the pommel assembly so that you can test fit it and get the exact dimensions of grip AND the section of rod that need to be built up with the construction paper and duct tape. Once you've got the right measurements proceed with the thickening of the rod.
Pic-EE, FF, MM

The Pommel
Pic-AA

Take your compression connector and disassemble it. Remove the lock nut and the small metal ring under the cap.
Pic-E, F

Insert the shank washer into the cap. Place a large o-ring over the cap threads and then screw the cap back on. Place a rubber bumper in the center of each side of the cap.
Pic-BB, CC, DD, T
Screw the eye-screw into the end of the rod. You may want to add a decorative washer or something to eye-screw before screwing it in.
Pic-FF, L

Peel back the grip a little to give you access to the section of rod that will be under the pommel assembly. Build up the area with the black duct tape until it takes a good bit of effort to get the pommel back on. Work the pommel back on and flip the grip back over the threads and test the entire assembly for stability.

Pic-GG, HH, II, EE, JJ, FF, KK

The Emitter
Pic-H

Take the aerator and unscrew the threaded white section. Place this section over the head of the bolt at the end of the fins assembly. It should fit very snugly. Now place two small o-rings over the threads. Screw the rest of the aerator onto the threads and the o-rings should be pushed back concealing the white threads completely.
Pic-I, J, U, V, W, X, P

Okay, I think you're done!
Pic-1,2,3,4,5,6

This design requires very few tools and little cutting. When I made it all I had was a cheap drill and a hand saw. But, if you don't mind cutting or drilling through metal there are a couple of options you may want to try. If you want to have a swivel style clip similar to the sabers in TPM then you drill through one side of the pommel and place a carriage bolt in place of a rubber bumper. This bolt head can be clipped into a microphone clip available at radio shack (21-923).
Pic-D

If you want a very, very solid design, then flip back the sections of grip that cover the threads of the control collar and pommel. Drill though the threads and countersink a few wood screws into the wooden rod below. Flip the grip back to hide the screw heads. (I haven't found this to be needed unless you plan to attach the swivel clip to the pommel for carrying. In that case I'd use a couple screws to attach the pommel as suggested above.

Good Luck and Enjoy,
Brian.

NEW SABER BY BRIAN


The pics are in the zip file. I have also created set of instructions for building one like it and put them on a small webpage. That can be found here: http://www.geocities.com/sabersmith/YellowBox.htm

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