REVELL 1:72 FOKKER E.III
Converstion to Fokker D.II

 

Reviewer: Steve Hedworth (contact via SMAKR webmaster)
Kit Review submitted:  15 June 2009

Aircraft History:

The first Fokker D types were intended to be the E types successors. Reports from frontline pilots such as Oswald Boelke indicated their preference for a biplane successor. The D1, and the D1V ,were powered by Mercedes inline engines of 120 hp and 160 hp respectively. Both proved inferior to Allied opposition and neither was produced in quantity. The rotary engined D11 and D111 performed better and nearly 300 were built. The D 11 was powered by a 100 hp Oberusal rotary and retained the E types wing warping method. Introduced during the summer of 1916 they were employed as escorts and when tactical needs arose they were grouped together, often alongside Fokker E types or Halberstadt D types, in temporary fighter groupings. The D 111 used the 160 hp two row rotary. The airframe was strengthened, wingspan increased and a new engine cowling was fitted to accommodate the more powerful engine. 

Both types served with the German air service and both were built in small numbers by MAG for the Austro-Hungarian air force. When the Germans reorganised their fighter formations into permanent Jasta squadrons the Fokker D types formed part of the new equipment but they rarely, if ever, were the total complement.

The Kit:

This a conversion based on the Revell Fokker E 111. The latest reissue remains in sand coloured plastic and there is minimal flash. Steve Hedworth has provided a review of this kit separately and recently - click here for more info or to access that review.  

(taken from Steve's E.III review) - This is the Revell Fokker E111, originally issued I believe, in 1965 and reissued in 1981. It is sand coloured plastic, had very little flash but there are several injection marks which are raised and can be filed off. 

Instructions:

Very good but you’ll only need half of them.

(taken from Steve's E.III review) - Four exploded views plus a rigging and transfer diagram. More recent reissues contain the usual multi lingual info and have eight exploded views, a better colour plan and slightly more detailed history.

Construction:

The Fokker D11 is a rare bird in modelling terms. The only kit I'm aware of is a vacform from Classic Planes and long OOP. As far as injection moulds are concerned I have seen nothing. However, as the D11is powered by the same engine as the E 111, and as photos and reference books all show the two types forward fuselage areas to be very similar, a conversion based on the latter appeared to be feasible. The Revell kit was the only one available when I first had this idea but I assume the more recent offerings now available could be used.

The D11 is 21 feet in length against the E111's 24 feet. The main fuselage piece needs 0.3 of an inch cut off from the tail as the Revell E111 is 0.2 inches undersized. Half an inch would be required if using another manufacturer's offering. Next, the fuselage main unit (14) has to have the sides reshaped. The taper of the underside to the tail has to be increased and then the depth at the tail has to be restored. The D11's upper decking is straight towards the tail from the cockpit. The E111 has a slight curve towards the tail. This could be levelled out with plastic card but I layered filler on top and filed it to shape. If I did it again I think I would go the card method but the filler did work and restored the depth of the rearmost section of fuselage. 

The wings are now removed from the lower forward fuselage section (15) and the remainder joined to the modified upper section (14). Gaps where the wings were need to be filled. The engine sub assembly is fitted and the pilot / lower decking is cut to size and installed into the fuselage. You will need to fill the slots that accommodate the E111's wings. As with the E 111 there is scope for extras in the cockpit. I used the kit gun but it is positioned farther back than the Eindecker with the butt level with the cockpit coaming. The D11 also has a headrest. A triangular piece of 10 thou, slightly arched sufficed and is glued in place. The cockpit is smaller than the E type and the front of the headrest was supported on a small section of plastic card. The hollow caused by the arching was filled. The pilot's seat has to be slightly forward to match the different cockpit size and this was achieved by cutting a tenth of an inch from the front of the floor (7). Gaps are treated with filler and smoothed out. 

The fuselage requires further modifications. The streamlining (?) in front of the under carriage slot has to be filed smooth and a slot to take the stabilizers has to be filed out at the rear. Most photos of the D11 show that the fuselage sides tapered from the centre to the upper and lower decking. It is not much but it does show up. The Classic vacform has a line moulded here but it doesn't look right so I filed the upper and lower edges back to try and reproduce the correct shape. I've definitely got a taper but I failed to produce the same thin line effect. Perhaps I was too timid. Last a small windshield can be added. 

After looking at some photos I decided to modify the Revell under carriage. The photos seemed to suggest that some aircraft had slightly wider wheel spacings so I snipped out the inner framework and fitted it as the kit instructions. Contrail rod / strut provided the rear legs and the axle while the wheels came from the spares box. I'm not sure if I made the correct decision here as I'm now thinking a narrower axle would look better. 

The stabilizers and rudder are last and now we're ready for the wings. I used 40 thou plastic card and took my measurements from Munson's Fighters 1914-19 and converted them to 1/72 scale. Once cut out they had rib detail scribed on with a craft knife and ruler. Then I tried to recreate the scalloped trailing edges. A small nick with a razor saw was used as a guide for a circular file. The lower wings have to be butted to the fuselage. I used ordinary glue at first and set the kit down with the wings supported by cardboard cut to shape. When they had started to set into the right position CA was applied. 

Wing struts were made from Contrail struts. I marked out the positions on the lower wings and started to set them using polystrene cement. It was allowed to go very tacky before the struts were located and when I was satisfied they were left to set. The top wing was next and I used polystrene cement on a couple of struts so that I could manoeuvre the wing if needed. When happy it was allowed to set then the others were locked into place with CA. The cabane struts are Contrail rod and were located in similar fashion and later strengthened with superglue. 

Lastly the tail strut came from the spares box although the kit supplied version could easily be adapted.

Rigging:

This is a two bay wing structure so there is extra rigging. I drilled the holes as the model progressed. Holes need to be pre drilled into the fuselage sides above the front under carriage legs and beneath the cockpit before the top wing is positioned. The rest are straight forward, next to the struts, and should be drilled at the same time, prior to upper wing positioning.

Colour Schemes:

There appear to be two choices.  Natural bleached linen overall or green and brown camouflage with turquoise/green under surfaces. The first appears similar to the E types while the second is illustrated in Munson’s Fighters 1914-19.


© Steve Hedworth 2009

Decals:

I had some old Microscale iron crosses and used them. For this type I’m afraid you’ll have to improvise unless there are specialist versions available.

Accuracy:

I’m pretty certain the general outline is correct and I’ve spelt out where I think improvements could be made. All in all I feel an accurate conversion could be made from this kit.  As for the finished product I feel I could do better the next time. I think it’s fair to sum up by saying that it showed a way.

Conclusions:

At the moment Revell WW1 models can be obtained at very reasonable prices in the UK.  If you want an early Fokker D type you’re going to have to build it yourself. As the basis for this conversion this kit is recommended.

Conclusions:

 


© Steve Hedworth 2009

 

SMAKR Home  |  What's New  |  Submissions  | Information Requests |  News  |  Links  |  Reference Corner  |  Site Info 
1/72 Reviews  |  1/48 Reviews  |  INBOX Reviews