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| Seeking WRACO (Winchester Repeating Arms Company), advertising, correspondence and related material for forthcoming book on the |
| "The Winchester Store" era |
| Need all items and any other information (i.e. from Vendors, Suppliers, Subcontractors, Major Dealers, Etc.). Copies or pictures requested, but will purchase if required... |
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| The Old Woodworking Machine Group is in the process of systematically going through every single woodworking patent before 1975. What they really need is patent information on actual machines. Please contact them with any patent dates or patent numbers that appear on your old woodworking machines. Besides benefiting mankind by helping connect patent papers to actual machines, you can learn exactly what features of your machines are patented. Send e-mails to the attention of J. Joslin |
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| March 2002 Article on Rust for The Old Tool Nut Journal |
| Copyright 2002 Tool Classics |
| Recently, I was at one of those "old tool" web communities (for those of you who don't web splash (can't surf), a web community is like the Joe's barbershop on Saturday morning or a coffee shop full of old tool nuts), when the discussion of rust removal came up. Someone said, "I hear you can remove rust from tools with an old battery charger and some wires." Whooo…doggie did that spark my attention. I almost replied that you could also achieve it with a couple other items, rope and a bumper. Well, I piped up and said that there are other less adventurous ways of killing old man rust. Then it started. The E-mail stampede. And it ended at my doorstep (computer). |
| I decided to take the bull by the horns, and shut off that *#!#* computer. And those of you who E-mailed me know it took a couple of days to get back to you. Ever have a tele-marketer tell you that you've won a fantastic prize and then have them hang up on you? Well, I thought about it for a bit and lucky for you I started E-mailing back a reply. And here is my answer to them; "I’ll get back to you in a few days." Actually, I told them that I was going to write an article on the subject for the Journal, and that I would send them a copy of the article by E-mail. |
| One of the first replies to Mr. Car Parts was that he should check out another web site. This site is from England, and the advice comes from Ted Kinsey, a professional in clock restoration. The process of using a battery charger and electrodes is called electrolysis. The process works, but I do not believe that it is the "save all" of processes. I also do not believe that the processes that I use are the "save all" processes. I believe that each process has their place. The processes that I will discuss are organic. If you wish to review the electrolysis process either go to www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm or wait for the May issue of The Old Tool Nut Journal. In May, we will visit electrolysis, and will give the results of tests and products. |
| Before attempting rust removal, you must first remove all non-steel or iron parts or attachments. Wood, aluminum, plastic and other substances may become damaged in the process of removing rust. Make sure to take the appropriate safety steps. Although the products I use are organic, they are very acidic. I strongly recommend that you use rubber gloves and safety glasses. I also recommend that if possible, you wear an apron. |
| So, here are the ways that I remove rust. The first is with an organic citrus product, which is sold only in 55-gallon drums. This is not an option to the average Joe, but there are citrus cleaners available to the general public, the catch is to make sure that it is VERY concentrated. High concentrated citrus cleaners are expensive, so be ready to shell out the bucks for this process! This process is not to be used if any of the parts are painted or have a finish on them! |
| I apply the citrus cleaner in full strength to the parts and keep them soaked and wetted with it for 2 hours. I then place the part in a plastic tub and cover the parts with a 50-50 solution of citrus cleaner and water. I soak the parts in this solution for 24 hours. I then use a plastic or brass brush to remove the rust and rinse it with water. I also use green, red or gray plastic scratch pads in some instances, but not often because they can leave scratch marks. If the rust is not completely removed, I repeat the steps of full strength wetting and then 24 hour soaking. As soon as you are pleased with the rust removal proceed to the rust prevention listed at the end of this article. |
| The second process I use contains white vinegar and water. This is more effective than the first process if you are unable to find a concentrated citrus cleaner. This process is also less expensive. The one down side to this process is that it may leave a slightly mottled finish on the metal. I personally do not find this finish distracting, and if you didn't know about it you would probably not notice it. If you are removing rust on a piece that as to be exactly historically correct, either use the electrolysis process or citric cleaner process. |
| The most important step in this process is to find a white vinegar brand that is most effective and least expensive. The most common Name Brands work fine, I have had less success with the off brands. What I use most often is Great Value white vinegar from good ole Wal-Mart. Make sure you use only WHITE vinegar. |
| The two down sides to this process is Smell and Mess, so be ready for it. You can use this process on parts that are painted without any effect on the paint itself. If the paint has a rust barrier between it and the metal, the paint will come off because the rust is removed and thus the binding material is gone! |
| This process is simple. In a large plastic tub combine enough vinegar and water in a 50-50 solution to cover the parts. Let the parts set for 24-48 hours. Some parts will turn black, but that will be corrected in steps to follow. After letting the parts soak for 24-48 hours, remove them and scrub them with a small plastic brush while rinsing with water. If the rust removal meets your needs, dry the parts and immediately go on to the rust prevention step. If you wish further rust removal, restart the process. |
| If the item is too large to put in a tub, or has wood or other parts attached that cannot be removed, there are alternative methods. In a bucket, mix the 50-50 solution. In the case of a large item, place a large sheet of plastic on the floor. On top of the plastic you can place the item to be cleaned and cover it with rags soaked in the solution and wrap the plastic over it. Make sure you seal the plastic well, and let it soak for a couple of days. In the case of small parts, wrap the area that needs rust removal with medical gauze that is soaked with the solution. Wrap the gauze with kitchen style plastic wrap and tape it closed. |
| You may reuse the vinegar solution several times, but when it turns too deep of red or black it is a good idea to start with a new batch. Do not dump the old solution in your yard. The highly acidic content will kill grass, but you can send it down the sewer. Do not dump it in any porcelain-coated sink or tub, it will stain it. |
| When you are done cleaning your parts, immediately start the rust prevention step. If you let the parts set even 5 or 10 minutes rust may return. I have another very large tub that I use for rust prevention. Step one is to completely coat the part with WD-40 while holding it over the large plastic tub. I use this as a drying process (trivia: WD-40 stands for water dispersant 40), and not as a lubricating process. In the bottom of the tub is a mixture of oils and lubricants. What I usually start with is: 1 Quart 30 WT Motor Oil, 1 Quart 10WT Oil, 3 Cans 3 in 1 oil, 8 ounces cutting oil. All of these oils are available at your local hardware supplier. After spraying the part with WD-40, I coat it with 3 in 1 oil and then place it in the oil bath in the tub for 24 hours. After 24 hours I pat the excess oil off the item. It is now ready to use! |
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