We had been seeing stark white calcium cliffs on photos and
postcards of Pamukkale everywhere and were looking forward to checking them out. We should
say what was left of Pamukkale. It was all still there, just partially closed off
in an attempt at preservation.
The name Pamukkale translates to Cotton Castle. How did this
geographical pheonomenon happen? For thousands of years a deep underground spring poured
out streams of hot, mineral-saturated water. As it flowed down the mountainside the
steaming water hollowed enormous circular basins in the earth, and the water's rich
mineral content coated the basins in a smooth layer of white calcareous rock (calcium).
The ancient city of Hieraopolis was built right near the
springs, so we could explore ruins and calcium springs all in the same afternon. Rumor has
it that Cleopatra and others came to bathe in the curative waters here. It's been a
popular resort since Roman times, so it was fitting we came here straight from Ephesus.
The town of Pamukkale was quiet and depraved. The
restoration of the calcium travertines left a deep dirge in the stream of tourists the
local hostels and restaurants were accustomed to. So you'd think we ought to have been
able to find a great place there. Not really.
We found the hostel we stayed at by narrowly avoiding two
young men who (literally) nearly ran over us as we got off the bus from Selcuk. They were racing
each other to get to us. Our backpacks were like a neon light that made us stand out in a
group of locals. But after Selcuk, we were accustomed to this, and prepared. Ironically we
actually took a ride from the guy's dad to the hostel. The draw? They had Internet access
and showed movies in English. It would be our first movie in a month-and-a-half.
Unfortunately, it was the worst one Kelly had ever seen--Mel Gibson's Payback. Dave wasn't
as harsh a critic.
We decided that some hostels had it and some didn't. This
one just didn't; the food was off, the rooms, the people. We knew we had an unusually
great experience in Selcuk, and we certainly weren't trying to repeat it, but we didn't
want to get sick either!
But the reason we came here was not for the lodging but to
see the calcium cliffs up close. The site was incredible but we could only imagine
how it would have looked if all the pools were full. After the twenty minute walk up
the cliffs with a couple of stops for Kelly to wade in some of the pools (right by the
"do not enter the water" signs), we made it to the top.
But probably the most amazing part of this place was not the
calcium cliffs but a simple tourist hotel on the very top. They had a swimming pool that
was filled with the same calcium-enriched water, lily pads, flowers, and the clincher:
dozens of actual Roman ruins, supposedly better-preserved in the water. We don't think we
will ever have the same appreciation for Roman columns again after swimming up and sitting
on some of them. The water felt like warm bubbly mineral water and the experience is one
we will always remember.
