Lunching with the Mountain Gorillas ©
- Volcano National Park, Rwanda - 

       First, let's set the record straight. King Kong was not a good public relations agent for the gorillas. He was only a figment of a writer's imagination. The mountain gorilla, in real life, is a shy but curious animal in a big furry body. Seeing this wonderful specie right before our eyes was an experience we will carry with us forever.

    To visit the awesome mountain gorilla, we flew to the lush central African country of Rwanda. It's to the right of Zaire, north of Burundi and south of Uganda. You can't miss it. From the capital city of Kigali, the 3 to 5 hour (depending upon who is driving) roller coaster dirt road trip to the Volcanoes National Park in Ruhengeri is an adventure unto itself. You can fly the distance but you'll miss an eyeful.

     Cristina and I tried to be "cool." But when we woke up on the morning of the trek, our anticipation of an encounter with the gorillas did get the better of us. We had heard many stories about the gorillas. We wondered if we would even find the gorillas in the rain forest. There were no guarantees. We wondered if the tread on our boots would grip the rain forest floor sufficiently to keep us from slipping off the mountain. How big are they, really? How friendly are they.....really?

       Our guide met us at our lodging sharply at 6:00 a.m. But wasn't it too early for our hearts to be beating so quickly? ....so loudly? A short joggling ride over the dusty dirt road brought us to the Park Ranger's headquarters of the Volcanoes National Park. The Rangers were already dressed in their dark green jungle uniforms preparing for their day's activities. We were there to register with the Park's authorities.

      To keep the disturbance within the rain forest to a minimum, only a few visitors a day are allowed to intrude into the gorillas' domain. The Park's headquarters were very sparsely furnished. But our eyes were drawn to a shelf that had about eight skulls resting on it.  All except one were the remains of gorillas that had been killed by poachers. One was the skull of a human. We didn't have the nerve to ask the question that was on the tip of our tongues.     

   We found out that we had been assigned to visit the gorilla group number 11. The number designation assigned to each gorilla group was based upon the number in the group when they were discovered. 

        Another short ride brought us to a Park Ranger's small tin hut at the base of the mountain where an English speaking naturalist gave us the "do's" and the "don'ts" of gorilla trekking. We were told not to stand up higher than the gorillas. They don't like it. We were told not to point at the gorillas. They don't like that either. The naturalist also instructed us that if the adult gorilla wants to show that it is in command of the situation, the gorilla will charge while beating its chest, waving a tree branch and making some frightful noises. Not to worry, he says. Just crouch down low and let the fellow get it out of his system. We took very good mental notes.

        The moment arrived. The Ranger took the lead into the rain forest. The rifle across his back was not for protection against gorillas but for just in case we were greeted by a rowdy African buffalo, one of the more aggressive and savage animals in Africa. The two young bearers boys we hired from the local village were instructed to stay close so our camera gear and film could be snatched up as soon as they were needed.

        The hiking made the cool weather turn on the warm side despite being more that 8,000 feet above sea level. The steep mountain required climbing under, over, around and through thick vegetation and fallen trees. The long sleeve cotton shirt and gloves were needed to protect us against the stinging nettles we brushed against. However, the quick sting of the nettles that did get through to our skin went by almost unnoticed because we had bigger things on our mind. Our silence was maintained because we were intently watching the faces of the two Rangers guides as their Swahili was exchanged. We could not read their lips but we could read their eyes.

        They brought us to the area where the gorillas had been located the previous day. From that point on, the real tracking took place. First we saw old gorilla droppings.....then we saw fresh droppings. Several hours of climbing through the thick rain forest past. The Rangers' eyes darted back and forth, up and down. Our heartbeats broke the silence. We thought our breathing could be heard for miles. We knew we were onto something. Then a Ranger pointed with his nose. Up in the tree, a few meters away, was a beautiful, black, furry mountain gorilla youngster swaying back and forth. We froze. The Ranger began speaking in deep guttural sounds to the other gorillas still behind the vegetation. It was an interesting conversation. The Ranger grunted. The gorillas returned the grunts. We inched forward. Crouched. Camera at the ready. Eyes bulged. Hearts raced.

        We didn't see the entire group immediately. A bit of maneuvering was required to get a better view of the group. This took us a few meters down the edge of a rain forest cliff. We had to use the vines to lower ourselves down the edge. Then we worked our way across the side of the cliff and back up the edge. Now we were there. We were encircled by over a dozen gorillas. They were having their lunch of tree bark, roots, and vines. They were close. No, they are very, very close. Their curiosity led the younger ones on an inspection trip that left a fingerprint on my lens. They also liked to tug at our shoe laces. We reluctantly resisted our temptations for physical contact. Diseases can be spread from humans to gorillas.

      For about one hour we were a part of their family. Our camera worked overtime to capture their wondrous eyes and gentle behavior. One gorilla stood out because he was using his left hand to scratch the right side of his head. His left hand was missing because it had been ensnared in the trap of a poacher. A second gorilla with a similar handicap with his right hand was spotted. The huge silverback male ignored us. Were are not too unhappy about that. His more than 400 lb., 6 foot body was close enough for our photographic needs. A zoom lens was not needed. The mother showed tremendous patience with her bubbling-with-energy baby who loved to do tumbling acts on her stomach. The other members of the group munched on the vegetation and stared deeply into our eyes. We returned the intent gaze.

       Our hour was up in no time. The gorillas' faces and gentleness were etched into our minds. The Rangers began their deep grunts so that our departure was not perceived to be a threat to the group. We left as softly as we arrived.

        Though our trek was physically exhausting, our faces beamed with accomplishment and with the excitement of seeing the elusive mountain gorilla. There was also a bit of gloom knowing that they may be on the edge of extinction. A 1960 census put the population of the mountain gorilla in this area to be about 450. A subsequent reduction of the 197 square mile Park to an area of 145 square miles has had a devastating impact on their population. Recent counts put the population at only about 250. The shrinkage of their habitat has forced some from their usual 8,500 foot elevation to the 11,500 foot level where the gorilla can die of the cold. Tourism, however, appears to have had a positive effect on the mountain gorillas' fate. Tourism has helped to pay Park Rangers' salaries to hunt poachers and has helped put pressure on the government's intention to further reduce the Park's size. Also, the increased number of visitors to the Park has made it more difficult for the poachers to wander undetected throughout the Volcanoes National Park. Seeing the mountain gorilla was an experience to cherish. Gratitude must be extended to the wildlife organizations whose efforts to study and preserve the mountain gorillas of Rwanda have made an impact toward their hopeful preservation. Although their fate may not be known for some time in the future, their faces will be with us forever.

(Our visit was shortly before the death of Diane Fossey).

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This gorilla was missing a hand from being caught in a snare trap. (mouseover)

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The End...