Lace

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0 height="100%"><tr> <td valign="top" width=200 BGCOLOR="#003333" TEXT="#F7F7FF" background="040d4c00dduajq.gif"> <div> <TABLE BORDER="0" CELLPADDING="2" CELLSPACING="0" WIDTH="95" BORDERCOLORLIGHT="#C0C0C0" BORDERCOLORDARK="#808080" FRAME="BOX" RULES="ALL" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0" > <tR> <tD VALIGN=TOP HEIGHT= 46 WIDTH="91"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="1x1.gif" HEIGHT="46" ALIGN="bottom" WIDTH="91" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></tD> </tR> </TABLE></div> <bR> <DIV ALIGN="LEFT"></DIV> <div> <A HREF="id55.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="TessasTwigs"><U>Tessa's Twigs</U></A></div> </td> <td valign="top" BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF" TEXT="#080000"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#003333" FACE="Arial" ><B>TOUCHARD: One Name Study</B></FONT>     |     <A HREF="index.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="TOUCHARD: One Name Study"><U>home</U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id17.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="About Us"><U>About Us</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id21.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Contact Me"><U>Contact Me</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id26.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Huguenots"><U>Huguenots</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id27.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="England"><U>England</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id28.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="France"><U>France</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id34.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Bethnal Green"><U>Bethnal Green</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id35.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="BethnalGreen1851"><U>BethnalGreen1851</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id36.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="BriansBranches"><U>Brian'sBranches</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id37.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Canada"><U>Canada</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id38.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="LondonChurches"><U>LondonChurches</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id39.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="EnglishTouchards"><U>EnglishTouchards</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id40.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Fiction"><U>Fiction</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id41.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Ireland"><U>Ireland</U></A>   |   <B>Lace</B>   |   <A HREF="id43.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="London"><U>London</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id44.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="LondonHuguenots"><U>LondonHuguenots</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id45.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Tours"><U>Tours</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id56.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Tushaws"><U>Tushaws</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id57.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="UKTouchards"><U>UKTouchards</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id46.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Me"><U>Me</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id47.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="NorthAmerica"><U>NorthAmerica</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id48.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Olives Tree"><U>Olive's Tree</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id49.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="PamsPods"><U>Pam'sPods</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id50.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Paris"><U>Paris</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id51.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="PrintTrade"><U>PrintTrade</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id52.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Rhine"><U>Rhine</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id53.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Shoreditch"><U>Shoreditch</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id54.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Silkweaving"><U>Silkweaving</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id55.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="TessasTwigs"><U>Tessa'sTwigs</U></A></div> <div> Lace</div> <div> Lace History 1500 - 1600s </div> <div> Little remains of the earliest laces, except tantalizing representations in paintings, drawings, and on sculptures of the Sixteenth century. Much of what we do know about the earliest forms of lace is derived from the surviving pattern books, previously mentioned. Mathio Pagano published his book of designs for embroidery and needle lace in Venice in 1542. It was almost immediately reprinted in Paris, Antwerp, Nuremburg and Augsberg. Vinciolo's pattern book included cut work embroideries, embroidered filet, and true needle laces, and was published in Paris in 1587. Le Pompe had been originally published in 1557, and was reprinted several more times, occasionally with additional patterns over several years. </div> <div> During the period from 1650 to 1670, Venetian Gros Point, was the dominant style. By the end of that period, Point de France had come into being, and superseded the Venetian lace in favor The enormous outlay of currency for the importation of Venetian Gros Point had attracted the attention of Colbert, the minister of Finance for France. His acumen led him to the conclusion that rather than prohibit the wearing lace, which had previously been attempted without success, France must develop it's own lace industries. They must produce products that would be so superior as to obviate the need or desire to import the Italian product. To achieve this end, Colbert enticed lacemakers from Italy and Flanders to his newly established lace centers. It was a move that enraged the Italians who forbade their workers to leave the country, and threatened those who already had with death as traitors if they did not return. It took only nine years for France to develop a superb lace, unique in design and of the highest standards of workmanship, that was instantly recognizable as French lace. </div> <div> Although both were needle laces, Point de France differed from Venetian Gros Point in several respects. Very high relief was a particular characteristic of Gros Point. The various elements of the design were joined by a relatively few 'brides' or bars. The designs were somewhat unrestrained, flowing and composed of leaf-like scrolls, fruit and flower forms. These were arranged along the complete length of a piece of lace. The French lace was much lower relief, joined the design elements with multiple fine brides or bars, and were arranged along the depth of the piece. The designs tended to be symmetrical and more balanced. </div> <div> The lace industry had already begun to grow in Flanders and Holland where flax was a prime crop and the linen spun from it was a prized commercial product. Several towns in the region became major lacemaking centers. Although at first, their laces were all quite similar, little by little they evolved the styles and techniques which would bear their names - Binche, Brugges, Brussels and Mechlin - into the eighteenth century. Areas of France, notably in the north, where flax growing and processing was a major industry were among the first in that country to become deeply devoted to lacemaking. Interestingly, these were almost all bobbin laces, and were to lay the foundation for the ascendancy of that form in the Eighteenth century. Even children were decked out in gorgeous displays of lace beginning in the Seventeenth century. The Duchess of Orleans was painted in 1680, with her children. The son who was to become the regent of France was still in petticoats at the time. He wore a red and gold brocade gown, with Venetian Gros Point cap, stomacher, apron and sleeve ruffles. </div> <div> At this point in time, Point de France had already gained ascendancy over the Venetian laces. Records of the time show that Italy had begun importing both French needle laces and Flemish bobbin laces. A flurry of edicts forbidding importation of laces, and sumptuary laws forbidding the wearing of them had little effect on the hemorrhage of currency flowing out of Italy to France and Flanders. The Italian lace industry might well have perished then, had the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 not played havoc with the lace industries of France. In many lace centers, over half the lace workers were Protestants who were forced to flee to Italy, Flanders and even to England. Many of these were the most skilled members of the work force in the French lace manufacturies. This devastation resulted in a temporary resurgence of Venetian and other Italian laces as the prime fashion laces. It was not to last long. In France, Louis XIV enmeshed his kingdom in the Wars Of Spanish Succession – on the wrong side. As always, the monetary cost of war was staggering, and the national debt was in the equivalent of several millions of dollars, a crushing burden in that period. The cost of war is not measured in gold alone. Estimates put the loss of life for France at close to 800,000 men (I have been unable to locate mention of casualties among women and children). Coupled with the loss of approximately 400,000 subjects due to the exodus of Huguenots after 1685, this was a staggering blow. In return, France gained part of west Flanders, with a population of not more than 250,000 subjects. </div> <div> Flanders itself had become a battleground. The participants in these wars (also known during that period as 'The Lace Wars') coveted the immense income from the lacemaking centers in the region. Most of the battles were in the western portion, but the entire region was affected by the loss of ready access to markets for its products. </div> <div> Not content with one conflagration, Louis XIV also enmeshed France in the Jacobite Rebellions in England thus removing that outlet for the products of its lace making and other luxury industries. The financial loss was considerable for fashion conscious England had loved French laces and fashions. England had until then, imported prodigious quantities of French luxury goods. Lace formed a significant portion ofsuch imports. </div> <div> 16th Century Lace was invented to satisfy increasingly refined fashions. Catherine de Médicis introduces it to France. </div> <div> Needle lace evolved from cutwork embroidery, bobbin lace from trimming (passementerie). </div> <div> At the end of the 16th Century, Alençon starts manufacturing lace, particularly "point coupé" (snipped thread). </div> <div> 17th Century Circa 1650 Madame La Perrière imitates and gradually perfects Venetian lace in her workshops. </div> <div> 1665 Colbert founds "Royal French-lace workshops" which imitate Venetian lace. One opens in Alençon. Italian lacemakers come and teach the technique. </div> <div> End of 17th Century: the birth of Alençon lace </div> <div> Acting on Madame La Perrière's initiative, the Alençon lace-makers develop their own style. Towards 1690 they adopt the net ground technique and invent new stitches. Alençon lace is born. </div> <div> 18th Century By now a luxury item, Alençon lace is declared "winter lace" (each lace was associated with a particular season). </div> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>