When I think about a survival instructor and outfitter, the first name that comes to my mind is Chris Janowsky of World Survival Institute. Chris runs a school up in Tok Alaska, teaching students common sense survival virtually on the edge of nowhere. The survival kits he puts together are simple, no nonsense, and straight to the point. If I were to be stranded in a far-flung place with nothing but one of these kits and the shirt on my back, I'd live through it. There are no gadgets here or techno fluff. All of these items fit easily in the small carrying pouch, which can be worn on a shoulder harness, belt, or in your pockets. This is just the essentials, which make for a small, lightweight insurance policy against Mr. Murphy, who will ensure what can go wrong will go wrong.

1 package bait. This is a fine collection of the basic lifesaving implements that can keep you alive till help arrives, or you can reach safety. In my opinion, no one makes a better kit for the money.

Whether you opt for a Debris Shelter, a Pit Shelter, a Lean-to, a Wickiup or a Stone Hut, the keys are adequate materials for the wind break and adequate materials for your "sleeping bag." Fire can lessen the need for a "sleeping bag." Snow shelters, such as a Quinze, a snow cave and an igloo are also important to understand. Adequate ventilation is critical. The key to any shelter is to get out of the wind (or the burning sun), then to concentrate on warmth and containing your body heat (insulation).

FIRE MAKING: When butane lighters, water poof matches, flint & steel kits, and magnifying glasses are unavailable, it's time to do what the native American did: go to the hand drill or bow drill. One of the most important steps is the proper selection of the wood to be used - look for medium woods, such as Alder, Big Leaf Maple, Box Elder, California Bay, Cottonwood, Elderberry, Willow, or Mule Fat. Downward force on the "handhold" is critical, as are smooth bow strokes. Take great care not to break apart the resulting hot coal when moving it to your tinder bundle. Use you knife blade to carefully transfer the coal. Technique is critical, as is determination and endurance.

CORDAGE MAKING: Wow! From a Yucca plant leaf to a strong piece of rope (cordage)! Amazing. Other great plant sources include Agave, Cattail, Dogbane, Milkweed, Palm Leaf, Singing Nettle and Tule. One may also use animal sinew, hair and rawhide. Cordage is important for bow making, shelter lashing, snares, tools and weapons making, net making, etc.

BASKET MAKING: OK. So this wasn't my favorite part, nor my best result. Survival baskets can be used for fishing streams, carrying food and supplies, eating and drinking, etc. roots, thin branches, vines, cattails, Tule, reeds, grasses and strips of bark may be used.

TOOLS MAKING (CARVING & FLINT KNAPPING): Whether you carve a wooden spoon, then use a burning coal to burn out the "cup" part, or use a stone to chip away at Obsidian until you have an arrowhead, you will receive deep satisfaction at your new-found creative abilities. This was one of my favorite classes.

SNARES: Hungry? Rabbit runs surround you? Then make a snare using three sticks and a heavy stone, and settle down to a tasty stew. Snares and traps vary from complex to rather simple. The keys to a snare are bait or lure, a triggering device and a lethal result or entrapment. Some traps are sprung by the hunter in hiding rather than by the prey. Where you place a trap or snare is as important as the working trap or snare itself. A good hunter/trapper studies the area for signs of prey (spoors, scat, tracks or runs), then locates the ideal spot for the snare or trap. Avoid an area around prey's living quarters, where the prey will be very alert to your presence and activity. If you must kill to eat, be thankful for the gift provided you, and respectful of the life you've taken.