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First, I started stringing the bead fringe that hangs around the face. I used a random pattern of numerous different kinds of beads including clear and white glass seed beads and pearls of varying sizes. I used a piece of lace hem tape as the base, and worked my way out from the center. There are approximately 40 individual strands, each 18-21 inches long.
Next, I embroidered the beaded front section of the headpiece. I used as many close up and high resolution pictures as I could find to mimic the pattern of the original. I used a two layer base for the beading - the bottom layer is wide weave netting and the upper layer is white tulle) - stretched over an embroidery hoop. Once I had this part done, I attached the beaded fringe to it. (Note: After the beading is embroidered onto the net, don’t cut the net away - trim it down to a manageable size, and fold it under and stitch it down so it’s invisible. Leave the back edge free - you’ll need it to attach the beading to the silver arc later)
Back around Easter, knowing I wanted to do this costume, I bought a couple of giant plastic eggs on clearance and from the eggs, I cut the earpieces, then primed them and sprayed them gold. Then I cut oval overlays of silver mesh, and glued them to the earpieces, positioning them on the bottom 2/3 of the structure.
The next step was the silver arcs.
I got some really really heavy cardboard and cut out the shapes
for the arcs (I had to do it a few times until I got the right
shape) and I covered the cardboard with a rough woven fabric (I
wrapped the fabric around the arc, and sewed it together at the
back), and inserted shaped wiring into them. (I cut the wiring
from coat hangers.) Then I put another overlay of fabric on them,
and one more layer out of mesh (I sewed all the layers on using
a rug needle).
Then, I sewed the loops of trim onto them. (I first roughly drew
out my guides for the loops directly onto the arcs.) Next, for
added strength, I brushed on a mixture of fabric stiffener, plastic
adhesive (this can be purchased from library supply catalogues)
and water. Once they had dried completely (I let them sit for
about a day) I sprayed them with a chrome coat. (bought at the
Home Depot). This spray, and most high luster metallic paints,
shows every single fingerprint, so at this point, things got a
little more difficult - meticulous care must be taken to handle
the arcs only by the edges. Spray touch ups can be done, but they
become more and more complicated as the headpiece gets closer
to completion.
Once the silver spray was dry, I glued a small jewel in the center
of each loop.
Then, the beaded piece got attached to the lower front silver arc. I just used the selvage that I left uncut after doing the embroidery to sew it to the backside of the arc.
The back of the headpiece also has a smaller beaded flap (approx. 3.5X5 inches) with waist length fringe attached to it. I used a piece of shantung silk for the base of the beaded flap and the fringe, leaving a selvage, and attached it to the back lower arc in the same manner.
Next, I attached the 2 lower arcs (front and back) to the earpieces -- many methods were tried, but I ended up going with Velcro, so I could get in and out of it more easily. I used sticky Velcro, but I also reinforced the adhesion to the inner earpieces with a gel formula super glue.
The tricky part: the brush.
I used a witch wig and cut all the hair off, then I reattached
the hair to a strip of bias tape
and made black cardboard insets the shape of the area from the
upper arcs to the lower arcs
and pushed the hair in using that. (This is illustrated by the
red outline in the rough diagram below)
Then, there was lots of fiddling, gluing, and pinning to get that to stay in place. Not very scientific, I know.
I stiffened the hair using a mixture of water, hair gel, and fabric stiffener.
So, then the headpiece was pretty much together -- I just had to place the beads in their twisted ropeyness, and run some monofilament through the earpieces to catch them into place.
I started with the burgundy underskirt, which is organza with
pleats stitched into it, and it has a blue/lavender chiffon flounce
under it to get the right color effect.
For the middle purpley layer, I used bright purple Lycra, and
stretched it using an embroidery hoop, and while it was stretched,
I stiple-stitched gray chiffon over it, so when it was released
from the hoop, it was all pouched and textured. (That was the
hardest sewing part, I think.)
I used that same piece of fabric I made (from the Lycra and chiffon)
for the collar and sleeves, which were attached to a plain white
v-neck t-shirt. I also attached the innermost burgundy undercollar
directly to the t-shirt.
The kimono was simple, but time consuming
I drafted a pattern for the funky shaped sleeves and kind of winged
the body of it (Again, I know this isn’t terribly descriptive,
but I’m one of those people that sews by zen, and likes to
eyeball things). I believe that a simple robe or kimono pattern
would work fine for the body of it.
While it was still unconstructed, I interfaced the sleeves and
copied the filigree pattern onto them, then I stitched the beaded
ribbon on by hand. This was extremely time consuming.
Once the beading on the sleeves was done, I sewed the kimono together,
and lined it. The obi has boning throughout, and I cheated and
made it with a separating zipper at the back (spray painted gold
to match the fabric) so it would be a bit easier to get in and
out of. Then I made a padded pillow backing for the obi, which
attaches to the sash portion via six heavy-duty snaps.
There is also a braided faux hairpiece which falls down to thigh
level at the back, which was made with another cannibalized wig.
