Firearms Questions and Answers
What is corrosive ammo?
The problem is different than what most people think. The PRIMERS in ammo labeled as corrosive
deposit a form of salt in your barrel. If you do not clean the barrel the same day you will damage
your barrel. Corrosive primers are simply old technology, like SKS's (1940) and AK-47's (1947).
The US even used these primers up to WWII. They will not do any damage to your weapon as long
as you clean them properly.I never see shotgun shells labeled as corrosive or non-corrosive, why is
that? Shotgun primers could be made using the same compounds that develop the barrel eating salt.
It is not necessary now because the non-corrosive compounds are readily available.
What is the difference between boxer-primed and Berdan-primed rounds?
A primer consists of a metal cup with a thin disc of explosive compoundin it. When you pull the
trigger and release the firing pin, it hits this cup and crushes the thin disc of explosive against the
primer anvil. In a boxer primed cartridge the anvil is a small metal piece which is a part of the primer
assembly. If you see one it will look like a little bow tie with a dent in the center. The dent is opposite
the impact point of the firing pin and provides a crushing surface (thus the name anvil) for the
explosive disc. The bow tie shape (narrow center,wide ends) allows the flame to go around the anvil
and out the Boxer case's single central flash hole. In a Berdan cartridge the anvil is formed as a part
of the primer pocket. It still uses a metal cup with explosive in it but instead of a hole in the middle of
the primer pocket like a boxer, there is a dimple sticking out. This central dimple (anvil) is the
crushing surface for the explosive compound. Because of the placement of the berdan anvil there are
two flash holes located opposite each other near the outer edge of the primer pocket. This makes
berdan cartridges harder to reload because you must line up two depriming punches in stead of the
boxers simple single punch.Boxer is superior simply because they are easier to use and produce
uniformly
How often should I clean my weapons?
Every time you shoot them. Use Shooters Choice on phosphor bronze brushes.
1)FROM THE BREECH 10 passes with a wet brush, wet it some more, 10 more, wet it, 10 more.
2)Hang barrel so muzzle is down, Allow to drip for a few minutes.
3)FROM THE BREECH Dry patches until the crud on them is lighter in color.
4)Repeat, repeat, repeat.
5)It will eventually come clean (no color or crud on patches)
6)Lightly oil bore, 2 drops on one patch, 3 passes
If you have some old military gun, good luck. I have cleaned some of my old beasts for WEEKS
only to have dirt come out every time. They will need Shooters Choice Copper Remover. Use this
product with plastic bore brushes as it will eat the phosphor bronze type. Never use stainless steel
brushes for any reason. They are sometimes made of material harder than your bore and will damage
it.There is a point where you can stop cleaning one of these old guns and it will shoot to its maximum
potential. Just don't think it will only take a little cleaning.
For corrosive ammo shooters;
Start with soapy warm water on your brush, Scrub FROM THE BREECH 10 passes, rinse brush
and bore and repeat. Dry bore with a few patches, 3 max and wipe entire gun dry. Start regular
cleaning procedure.
Should I get my barrels coated with that moly stuff? Will it make my rounds
go faster?
Every time you fire a round in your gun the blast and flame behind that bullet actually combusts
(burns away) some of the steel from your barrel. Its called flame erosion and exists in all
firearms.Molybdenum Disulfide (moly) is useful as a bore treatment because it coats and protects the
bore as well as combusts in place of your barrel steel. Moly is a fine metal powder suspended in a
carrier agent (grease). The moly is able to be compressed and deposited into the millions of
microfractures and fissures existing in your barrel as a result of the rifling process. When these voids
have been filled with moly the surface of the bore is less susceptible to the flame erosion and
combustion. The moly combusts so you must continue to use coated ammunition but there is a
definite benefit. The effect of filling these voids is to reduce friction. This also lowers the amount of
pressure required to obtain a similar velocity to untreated projectiles. They won't necessarily go
faster but there will be an increase in barrel life.
Is it cheaper to assemble my own AR-15, than to buy a complete one? Will it
be as good?
Absolutely. Yes, maybe even better. If you do it yourself, you can build the gun you want instead of
the gun someone wants to sell you. If you have a Barrel wrench($10), hammer and a vise you can
build an AR-15. A receiver costs at most $150 right now and a complete kit is only $375 from
Model 1 Sales.
What is the absolute cheapest rifle you would suggest, for the militia person
on a tight budget?
Get a used bolt action hunting rifle in .308 or .223. DO NOT waste your money on a semi-auto gun
just because it has a big magazine or low price. Accuracy is absolutely the most important thing in
any weapon, and only a few of the more expensive semiautos can threaten the bolt guns. One well
placed round at 300 yards always beats 50 rounds at spitting distance. They also will be around for
much longer because they aren't black and scary like evil 'salt 'weppins.
How much is a grain?
7000 grains =1 pound
437.5 grains = 1 ounce
1 grain =0.0648 grams
What kind of ballistic chart should I tape to the butt of my rifle?
I have not seen any militia people do this, yet, but I understand that they should...... The chart should
contain the windage and elevation corrections for any target inside your weapons effective range. I
suggest 50 yard incrementsout to maximum range. Caliber .223 or 7.62x39 weapons should be
charted to minimum 300 yards. Any .308 or larger should be charted to minimum 800 yards.
Explain the difference between "muzzle break", "flash suppressor", and
"barrel extender" please. What should I put on my post-ban barrel, if
anything?
A muzzle break is a device with an arrangement of ports designed to vent escaping high speed
gasses in a manner which reduces recoil, usually venting gasses upward or to the side. They will
increase perceived muzzle blast severely. An efficient design will usually cut recoil by 30%
A flash suppressor is a device with an arrangement of ports or slits designed to cool and dissipate
escaping high speed gasses in a manner which reduces the visible flash signature. They will increase
perceived muzzle blast somewhat. An efficient design like the Smith type flash suppressor eliminates
visible muzzle flash.
Barrel extender? Sounds like a solution looking for a problem.
Do not put anything on your Post-ban muzzle unless you want more noise or plan to do lots of night
shooting.
Is a stripper-clip loaded SKS acceptable for militia use?
Only if all the bad guys stand still at no more than 100 yards. No, seriously, what would say if I
wanted to make your favorite militia rifle heavier, less accurate and more difficult to load. How about
if I put crappy sights on it and made the barrel and receiver out of metal softer than a lunchbox. And
finally I'll make all the ammo out of substandard components in an inferior caliber that even the
Russians dropped 25 years ago. Thats the effect of trading an AR-15 for an SKS or AK. Slug
barrel shotguns feature similar accuracy and are mush more useful. It is my opinion that these
weapons are not suitable as primarymilitia arms. As third or fourth string backups ...maybe.
Does it matter a lot if I use different ammo in my rifle? As long is thebullet
weighs the same, it should be okay, right?
Zero your weapon with one specific brand, weight and bullet type. Different types of ammo will not
shoot to the same point of impact. Thisis true of even match ammo.
Is the AR-15 REALLY the best militia weapon?
It is a completely modular weapon system with limitless variation. You can make a 6-1/2 lb
lightweight carbine or a 10 lb ultra accurate sniper weapon just by switching the upper receiver
assemblies. Match triggers are available as are all manner of accessories. A scoped AR with a good
heavy barrel should be able to hit a pop can at 300 yards every time.The ammo is lighter and more
effective than 7.62x39.The only thing superior would be an Armalite AR-10 in .308
What kind of pistol should I get, if I don't have a lot of money and/or time to
practice?
Unless you are willing to shoot at least 100 rounds a month do not buy a pistol as a primary defense
weapon. Get a shotgun instead. Handguns require intense training and practice to master. The
development of these skills is not easy or cheap. If you want to buy a handgun to be used as a last
resort (shotgun or rifle out of ammo) these would be my choices. They still require practice but I
don't want you people buying a piece of crap.
The best revolver would be either the S&W 66 or 19 with 4" bbl and the best pistol would be a high
capacity 40 or 9. Glock, Glock, Glock or Sig in that order. 9mm if you just want to wound 'em, 40
if you can afford the more expensive, harder to find ammo.
How often should I shoot my rifle?
The minimum should be a thirty round session every month. Ten rounds each from prone and sitting
with a sling and ten more offhand at 100 yards. Keep track of your scores and allow for practice
dryfiring sessions one day a week. *Buy an air rifle and shoot every night in your basement. 1000rds
costs a few dollars and will reward you with enhanced weapon control and sight alignment skills.
They are also a means of hunting with nearly the range of a rimfire without the noise.
My wife/girlfriend/kid/grandma is not a very big person. Is there a certain
type of firearm more suitable to smaller people?
Rifles:
Recoil-wise none of the guns mentioned thus far should pose a problem. Fit of the weapon will be a
greater determining factor. Cut the stocks down on bolt guns or shotguns. Buy an M-16 buttstock
for the AR-15, it's a inch shorter than the standard buttstock.
Shotguns:
Try light target loads or reload for ammo that is less powerful. Stay with 12 or 20 gauge minimum.
Lighter gauges are for experts, not kids.
Handguns:
Load the .357 revolver with .38 Special and anyone down to preteens should be able to use them.
What kind of cleaning oil/solvents/solutions should I use?
Rifle/Shotgun/handgun bore cleaner: Shooters Choice
Rifle/Shotgun/handgun bore lube: Shooters Choice FP-10
Weapon External lube: Shooters Choice FP-10, Birchwood-Casey SHEATH, RIG Grease
Internal mechanism lube: Shooters Choice FP-10, LSA
Never use WD-40 on your guns. It is nothing but Kerosene with a drying agent. Carburator cleaner
can be used to blast crud out of the action. Be sure to relube. CLP features teflon but it seperates
immedately upon application.
If you have a questions for our Weapons Information Officer, feel free to
e-mail us. The only really stupid question is the one that you fail to ask......
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