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GUIDE TO INDIVIDUAL TACTICAL READINESS LEVEL 1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction...................................p.3

Level One equipment and skill list........p.4

Level One equipment in detail:

Rifle................................p.5

Ammunition...................p.10

Water container..............p.11

Weapon cleaning kit......p.11

Carrying gear.................p.12

First-aid kit...................p.13

Boots............................p.15

US Constitution...........p.16

2-mile march.................p.17

Rifle breakdown...........p.18

Rifle qualifying.............p.19

Notes and appendices..p.20

INDIVIDUAL READINESS: AN
INTRODUCTION

This guide was developed after much discussion and field experimentation. Many hours were spent
arguing over what to consider "necessary", and to what degree of skill militia persons should aspire.
This guide is for the completely uninitiated, though others will also find it useful. It is by no means
all-inclusive. There will be many items left out that you may personally feel are absolutely necessary,
and there may be skills left out that you may believe to be absolutely essential as well. If you don't
like this one, then write your own damn guide.

This guide is for beginners. We'll explain what we're doing here.

Take your average American, and thrust him into a position where he/she must defend his/her way of
life against an ever encroaching globalist government, or any other threat or emergency. To what
degree should he train? What kind of gear should he have? Add to these the facts that he is working
a steady job, has a great deal of family commitments, and would still like to see a hockey game or a
movie now and then. You will find that he has very little time to train, very little money to spend on
gear, and very little energy left to pursue the causes of freedom.

That's a fairly decent picture of your average militia person today. Only the most determined
dedication can overcome these obstacles.

So we have developed this guide, in the hopes that it will help smooth over the rough road to
readiness. Perhaps with this minimal direction that we have set forth, a few more motivated patriots
will now seek to develop the skills necessary to defend our great Republic.

SKILL LEVEL ONE:

Skill Level One is what we consider the absolute minimum level of readiness necessary to be an
active line member of The Wayne County Brigade of the Michigan Militia. It is the position of the
Headquarters staff that these requirements, when met, will be sufficient to be considered "capable of
bearing arms". The Militia is defined as "all citizens capable of bearing arms".

Level One required equipment:

1) Rifle.

2) 100 rounds of ammunition for same rifle.

3) Water container, one quart minimum.

4) Cleaning kit for above rifle.

5) Suitable carrying gear to transport personal equipment.

6) Individual first-aid kit.

7) Combat or hiking boots.

8) Copy of the US Constitution (the document, not the boat) and Declaration of Independence.

Level One required abilities:

A) Complete a two-mile hike with all Level One equipment within 40 minutes.

B) Field strip weapon for cleaning.

C) Place 8 out of 10 shots into a 9" target at 100 yards.

A DETAILED LOOK:

1) RIFLE: There are many choices available when choosing a primary weapon. Because military
rifles have been subjected to extensive testing and have been designed to withstand tough battlefield
conditions, we suggest that your rifle be of a type similar to that used by some military forces at some
point within the last 100 years or so. Even a brief study of the history of military conflict, and a look
at current events will reveal that this does not narrow your choice by any measurable degree. Any
type of weapon can be used in a pinch.

For our purposes, we will rule out extremely rare and ancient weapons. Muskets, blunderbusses,
and repeating crossbows are better than no weapon at all, but not very practical to discuss in this
guide.

Theoretically, you could carry a pistol or shotgun as a primary weapon. Indeed, there are many
specific situations where a pistol or shotgun will be the best thing you can have, but for general
purposes, a rifle is what is required.

We will look at some of the options available to the novice militia person.

Military surplus bolt-action rifles. For the average citizen, the first consideration in acquiring that
first weapon will be cost. (One should also factor in how much value they place on the survival of
themselves, their families, and their Nation.) Military surplus bolt-action rifles are among the most
inexpensive weapons available. Many of them cost less than $100, and just because a rifle is
inexpensive, that doesn't mean that there is anything wrong with it. Many of these old bolt-action
rifles have served admirably in conflicts around the world.

With just a bit of effort, some of these old war-horses can be turned into impressively accurate
sniper-rifles, which would be perfect for guerrilla-type, shoot-and-run operations.

One consideration when looking at military surplus bolt-action rifles is ammunition availability. They
can come in some pretty obscure calibers, so ask around before buying one. Some fairly common,
affordable rifles come in 7.62X54, .303, and various 8mm cartridges. The 6.5mm Swedish Mauser
has been increasing in popularity recently, and it is still fairly affordable. Of course, any rifle is better
than none, as long as you have ammunition for it.

Check at the next gun show, talk to your local dealer, or spend some time reading "The Shotgun
News", to get some ideas on what you can afford.

Another relatively inexpensive option would be to purchase an SKS. These are 10-shot
semi-automatic carbines, with either a 16- or 20-inch barrel. Made in China or Russia, these are
chambered in 7.62X39, the same round as the AK47. You may still be able to find some with a
built-in bayonet. This may, one day, be a useful feature.

The fixed 10-round magazine may be seen by some to be an overly limiting feature, but beware of
after-market conversion kits intended to allow a detachable-magazine. Section 922R of the
arbitrarily made-up federal regulations could make adding this item a felony. More importantly, most
people who have tried these conversion kits have found them heavy and difficult to operate, and they
have quickly returned to the stock, 10-round fixed magazine. Loading a fixed magazine with stripper
clips is a completely acceptable method of operating this weapon, anyway. There are some SKS
rifles that will accept the AK47 magazine. These are hard to find, and are certainly more expensive
than a 10-round SKS, but they are dependable weapons.

Also accepting the AK47 magazines are the many civilian versions of the AK47. The most
commonly available version of these is the MAK90. They cost more than the SKS, and are just as
reliable. The big improvement is their ability to accept larger capacity magazines. Since there are
such large-capacity magazines available, you may wish to consider a heavy-barrel version of this
rifle. Most of them will be designated as such. A heavy-barrel will allow a greater rate of fire,
because the heavier barrel will be less likely to overheat. A drawback to a heavy-barrel is the
additional weight. This is a personal decision, with no clear right or wrong way to go.

The AK47 is considered one of the most successful military rifles in the world. Its use by armies and
others worldwide will attest to its worthiness as a militia weapon.

The .30 Cal. M1 Carbine is another rifle to consider. These were originally designed to replace the
.45 pistol. They are relatively lightweight, and fairly accurate. Chambered for the .30 cal. round, they
do not possess overwhelming penetration power. Several million of these were produced, so there
are plenty out there. If you can find one for under $300, that would probably not be a bad purchase.
The .30 Carbine round is no longer used by any armed forces, so in the long run, it may become
difficult to acquire more ammunition in the field.

Ruger manufactures both the Mini14, chambered in .223, and the Mini30, chambered in 7.62X39.
These are both reliable and accurate, and not incredibly heavy. Either one would serve well as a
militia weapon. They come in many variants, and many accessories are also available.

The Korean-made Daewoo DR200 is a favorite among some of our militia friends. It uses the same
ammunition as the AR15/M16, .223 cal., the round used by our military forces, and it also accepts
the same magazine. It is accurate and dependable, and it costs much less than an AR15. They have
that terrible thumbhole stock, but if you don't mind that ugly bit of political correctness, these
would make a fine choice.

The L1A1, the civilian version of the FN/FAL, would be a good option. These weapons are
chambered in the popular .308 (7.62X51), these weapons offer possibly more range than the .223
selections. They are a bit heavier than many rifles, but they are made very well, and are dependable
rifles.

The M1 Garand, chambered for .30-06, a very hard-hitting round, has been called the greatest
infantry rifle ever made, in one publication. These rifles have a unique 8-round clip that pops out
when empty. For a powerful rifle with long range capabilities, they would be excellent. For a
spray-and-pray enthusiast (someone with less emphasis on accuracy, and more emphasis on large
volumes of rounds), this would not be a good pick. The .30-06 round is widely available, as it is
used by many hunters.

The AR15 is the civilian version of the rifle used by the US armed forces, the M16. As it is possible
that militia units will find it necessary to fight alongside US units in defending our country, this would
be an appropriate choice. These rifles come in so many barrel lengths, and with so many options and
variants, that it would be very difficult to not find one that suits you. Most of the military surplus gear
that is currently available is geared toward this weapon. It is a favorite of many militia types.

Keep in mind that the most commonly available rounds are .223, 7.62X39, and .308 (7.62X51).
Availability of ammo is an important consideration, and we know of some people who have
purchased a weapon merely because they came across a good deal on some ammo for that weapon.

There are many other options to think about. A lever-action 30-30 will work, if that's what you
have. It would be a good idea to attend any militia range function, and see what they are carrying.

Given that the right to keep and bear any arms is continually coming under attack, one should give
serious thought to acquiring that first weapon as soon as possible; buy a rifle while you still can.

2) Ammunition: Your ammunition must be for your rifle. It is by far better to buy your ammo in bulk
than to buy it a box or two at a time. Perhaps you can go in together with someone that uses the
same rounds as you do. This is a common occurrence in the brigade. It would be great if you (or
your fellow team-mates) could get into reloading, so you could save even more money. We suggest
that you keep at least 1000 rounds of ammo at home, as it can become a high-value commodity
overnight. Ammo can be ordered from wholesalers, and delivered directly to you,

100 rounds is an absolute minimum carried load. This ammo should be carried hands-free in ammo
pouches or a bandolier. Carrying a bucket of ammo will not work. If your weapon is magazine-fed,
you must carry at least one magazine, and we highly suggest that you have enough magazines to
carry 100 rounds in. If you do not have a magazine-fed rifle, then try to keep your rounds on
stripper clips. Loading single rounds one at a time can put you at a dire tactical disadvantage. You
should make every effort to ensure that your ammo is easily accessible for quick and efficient
reloading.

Armor piercing rounds, tracers, and such: These special purpose rounds are much more expensive
than regular ball ammunition. If you can afford some, armor piercing rounds would be a bonus in the
event that you are confronted by armor wearing foes (like the bank robbers in Los Angeles). If you
are a small unit leader, you may wish to consider tracer rounds to help direct you unit's fire.

Hollow point ammunition is not allowed in armed conflict under the Geneva Convention. It is
acceptable for training or hunting.

3) WATER CONTAINER: This must be a sealable, non-glass container to carry water in. It must
be able to carry at least one quart of water. You must be able to carry it "hands-free", so some kind
of carrying strap, belt, suspenders, or other means of transporting is necessary. An open pitcher of
water will not fulfill this requirement. A military surplus or other type of outdoor type of canteen will
be fine. A regular one-quart water bottle will work, if you have some way to carry it. Some people
have started out with a plastic pop bottle carried in a shoulder bag, and that is acceptable.

4) WEAPON CLEANING KIT: This will vary, depending on the type of rifle that you carry, but
should include a cloth of some sort, a cleaning rod or pull through cord, a bore brush, cleaning
patches, and some kind of lubricant. You may also wish to include a tooth brush type of brush, pipe
cleaners, and Q-tips, and whatever specific items required to maintain your weapon. These items are
all available at the next gun show, at any local gun shop, or through "The Shotgun News", or other
similar publications. It would make sense to buy a cleaning kit at the same time that you buy your
rifle. Cleaning equipment is very inexpensive, and there can be NO EXCUSE for failing to have a
basic cleaning kit.

As for types of lubricants, we will suggest Break Free CLP (cleaner, lubricant, protectant). It is what
the military uses, it is commonly available, and relatively inexpensive. A small bottle will fit nicely in
your cleaning kit. We realize that there are other, better (and more expensive), cleaning products
available, but Break Free is a functional, general purpose item that will do the job. As you learn
more, you will develop your own favorite cleaning routine, with your own favorite products. But for
now, start with the basics.

5) CARRYING GEAR: Web gear, TA-50, vest, kit, LBE (load bearing equipment), rig, set-up,
whatever you call it, some kind of carrying gear is necessary. The standard US military (and,
consequently, many third-world allies) carrying gear consists of a web belt, suspenders, (we
recommend "H"-type suspenders instead of the "Y"-type, as the "Y" suspenders may pinch and bind
some of us in the neck and shoulder region. If you can find the older "H" suspenders, they will be
inexpensive. The new manufactured "H" suspenders that are available through several mail order
companies are somewhat more expensive. "Y" suspenders are fairly common place.), ammo
pouches (2), canteens (1 or 2), and a butt-pack. The butt pack can hold your cleaning kit and
first-aid kit, or you can have a separate attachment for them.

There are many new, high-speed vests and carrying mechanisms available through US Cavalry, or
other mail-order companies, but they are all very expensive. Some new, high-tech rigs can run close
to, or even over, $200!! You would be much better off sticking with surplus military gear. If,
however, you have your own unique way of carrying gear that works well for you, then stay with
that.

If you want ideas or suggestions on how to carry your stuff, please attend any militia training session
and ask the people there for assistance. They will be more than willing to offer advice.

Please remember that later on, we will be adding some more equipment to the required list, so keep
in mind ways of adding to and expanding your gear.

It is also important, especially with older gear, to make sure that there are no shiny metal surfaces
visible. You can tape or paint over them. Also make sure that any straps are not excessively worn,
and that all necessary clips are present and functional.

6) INDIVIDUAL BASIC FIRST-AID KIT: This should be considered as an absolute,
bare-bones minimum first-aid kit. After much discussion, we decided on these items. You are free to
add whatever personal medication or other items that you feel is necessary. Some kind of
pain-killer/analgesic, anti-diarrhea medication, anti-histamine or other allergy medicine, and maybe
some cough drops are possible considerations, but they are not requirements. Please be certain that
your medications are completely LEGAL. The required items are:

a) 1 pair of latex gloves. These will be needed if you ever have to work on someone who is
bleeding. It is important to avoid contact with anyone else's blood or other bodily fluids. These
gloves take up almost no space, weigh next to nothing, and are usually available by the box at any
drug store.

b) 32" triangular bandage (battle dressing). This is the type of bandage that can be tied around a
wound, even a large, serious one. The military style battle dressing will work, but any 32" triangular
bandage will be fine. In a pinch, you can even cut your own triangular bandage from a clean sheet.
Keep the bandage in its package, or if you cut your own, in a baggie by itself.

c) 1-ounce tube of Triple Antibiotic. This is a good, general purpose ointment for minor cuts and
scrapes. In a field environment, nobody can afford an infection. This ointment is available either with
Lidocaine, a topical pain reliever, or without. It is less expensive without. You should be able to find
a tube for $2 or less at your local large department stores. It may be more expensive at a drug store.
This is an item that is very useful to have even if you have no militia inclinations whatsoever, so go
pick up a tube or two the next time that you are out.

d) 5 Band-aids, minimum. These should be the regular size adhesive strips. You may wish to have
more, and of different sizes, but you must have at least 5 regular band-aids. You may want to
consider the waterproof/sweatproof kind. Please avoid brightly-colored children's band-aids.

e) 1 roll of gauze. These are available by the box at any drug store. You must have at least one in
your first-aid kit, and you should keep a box or two at home. These can also be used to wrap
and/or tie around a wound.

f) 1 4"X4" gauze pad. You may actually wish to obtain several of these, as they are not usually
available in single packages. They must be secured to a wound in some fashion, such as tying with a
bandage, or securing with surgical tape. Surgical tape is not a requirement, but it is highly suggested
that you obtain at least a small roll. (Note: Unit medics ARE required to carry surgical tape. Please
refer to our "Guide to Team and Squad Operations" for further details.)

All of your first-aid gear should fit in a baggie. You can carry this in your butt-pack, or it will fit in an
AR15 ammo pouch nicely. There are also some military first-aid attachments for your web gear,
available at a local surplus store, or through one of the several mail order companies.

It is important that your fellow militia members know where your first-aid kit is, so inform them
verbally, and use black electrical tape to mark the location of your kit with a cross. You may wish to
trail a small, dark red ribbon from your kit, to further help your team-mates in finding your gear,
should you become incapacitated.

Your first-aid gear is for YOUR use. It should be maintained and updated on a regular basis. Do not
allow your personal medication to expire, and check any sterile packaging periodically to make sure
that it hasn't ruptured.

You may also wish to purchase a pre-assembled kit from Brigade Headquarters for $5.

Your comments and suggestions in this matter, as in all others, are welcome.

7) COMBAT OR HIKING BOOTS: We almost didn't make this a requirement, because some
of us thought that everyone would automatically meet this requirement. An argument was made to
the contrary, therefore, you must wear combat or hiking boots that fit your feet.

Any boot issued regularly by the US military would be a good choice. The Army spend millions of
your tax dollars testing and refining footgear for our troops. They will not issue boots that will harm
its soldier's feet.

Some other boots that are good are the very expensive Danner Ft. Lewis Gore-tex boot. This boot
has lasted for seven years for one individual that has worn them to work, and to the field regularly.
They are expensive at around $200, but well worth it.

Herman Survivors are also good boots, and they cost a bit less.

Jungle boots are very inexpensive, and they are excellent summer boots. When the weather turns
cold, however, they are fairly useless. You should have a pair on hand, for the warm months.

Even with a good, all-purpose boots, you will still want to acquire additional winter boots. You can
get winter boots with removable inserts, most of these seem to work well. The US issued Mickey
Mouse boots are excellent if you expect to spend extended time in a static position in extremely cold
weather. For the price, they are hard to beat.

Plan to buy your boots at the end of the day, after your feet have swollen just a bit from the day's
activities.

Avoid steel toe boots, especially in winter. They can become quite uncomfortable.

For a closer look at what many militia people consider to be good boots, just attend any training
session, and ask around.

8) COPY OF THE US CONSTITUTION AND DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE:
Neither of these grant us any rights. It is far beyond the scope of a written document to bestow (or
remove) a naturally occurring right. Instead, they seek to clarify and preserve our natural,
fundamental human rights, none of which are dependent upon any mere document.

A thorough understanding of how the Constitution was designed only to limit the government will
lead you to better grasp the nature of some of the threats that loom over our country today. We
suggest that you become quite familiar with your Constitution. There are many who would deny its
validity: they are your enemy.

If, for some reason, you do not have a copy of these important documents available, please contact
your nearest militia unit, and they can furnish you with one. You can also contact your Congressman
or Senator and request a copy.

This concludes the equipment requirements for Level One. We feel that these items will be relatively
easy to acquire, and the total cost of "gearing up" will not be overwhelming. If you still have difficulty
in finding some items, or if you need help selecting something, feel free to contact your local militia
unit for assistance.

Please remember that this guide is only intended to serve as a starting point, and that there will
always be some other items that you will discover to be necessary later on. We will publish
guidelines for additional levels as we develop them. Your input on these further publications will be
very much welcomed.

LEVEL ONE ABILITY REQUIREMENTS

Having looked at the equipment requirements for Level One, we will examine the three simple ability
requirements. We feel that, after demonstrating these abilities, you can be considered "able-bodied
and capable of bearing arms".

A) COMPLETE A TWO-MILE HIKE WITH ALL LEVEL ONE REQUIRED GEAR
WITHIN 40 MINUTES. You will also be required to carry any shooting aid that you intend to use
in your rifle qualification (requirement C).

It is important to be able to get around on foot. It is possible that, under any number of
circumstances, travel by other means will be difficult or impossible. A short, two-mile hike at a slow
to moderate pace is a good measure of your mobility.

Please do not be alarmed by the distance. Two miles is actually a very short walk. Most of us cover
many more miles in our daily lives.

You will be given as many attempts as you need to complete this walk. If, for some reason, you do
not succeed the first time, additional attempts will be allowed after a brief rest period of not less than
15 minutes. It is very possible that persons who do not make it the first time could easily make it if
they merely pick up the pace a bit.

As there are few roads along which a militia march would fail to attract unwanted attention, the
march will take place on a private road or trail.

The march may occur in any weather or road condition.

Please do not attempt this march if it may jeopardize your health.

B) FIELD STRIP YOUR WEAPON FOR CLEANING. Since there are many types of
weapons available, this guide cannot possibly cover even a fraction of them.

There are several ways to learn how to break down your rifle. You can learn from the manual that
will come with any new rifle. You can learn from instruction s published in some other sources, such
as certain issues of "Guns & Ammo", and the like. You can also ask someone who is already familiar
with that type of firearm. Any gathering of friendly militia people is bound to be brimming over with
firearms knowledge, and they will be more than willing to help you. Do not be embarrassed to ask
someone for help- the only dumb question is the one that you don't ask.

You will need to break your weapon down so that the bore, bolt, and gas system (if it has one) may
be properly cleaned. There will be additional items that it is possible to break down (buffer springs,
extractor pins, hand guards, etc.), but for now, this simple field-stripping will suffice.

In many instances, there will be a special tool or device required to break down a certain piece or
aspect of a particular rifle. If you are aware of this, it is very important that you obtain this special
tool, preferably when you buy the rifle. Sometimes, however, the requirement of a special tool is a
warning that you should not remove that certain part at all, so any time a tool is required, exercise
extreme caution. Consult your manual, or someone who is thoroughly knowledgeable about your
weapon before using any "special tools".

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: NEVER ATTEMPT TO DO ANYTHING WITH A
WEAPON UNLESS YOU UNLOAD AND CLEAR IT FIRST! NEVER, EVER POINT
YOUR WEAPON AT ANYONE! ALWAYS BE SAFETY CONSCIOUS!

C) PLACE 8 OUT OF 10 SHOTS INTO A 9" TARGET AT 100 YARDS. From a field
expedient position, using any item that you carried on your two-mile hike, place 8 out of 10 shots
into a 9" target at 100 yards. No benchrests will be allowed, and there will be no coaching while you
are firing your 10 round string. You will be required to complete this within 5 minutes. You may use
a bipod, sleeping pad, rucksack, or whatever, as long as it was carried on your march. You are not
required to use anything. If time permits, you will be allowed to sight in prior to actual qualifying.

Multiple attempts will be allowed, after everyone has had a first attempt. Following your first
attempt, you are free to request a critique of your shooting. In fact, such critiques are often provided
without any request at all.

Hitting a 9" target at 100 yards should be relatively easy. (At higher levels, the target will get
smaller.) Almost any militia person will help you accomplish this. If you just show up at any range
training, we'll be glad to help. (Some training sessions do not require firearms, so please check first.)

The final word on shooting, and you will hear this repeated often, is "practice, practice, practice."

CONCLUSION

This completes the requirements for Level One. Upon fulfilling these requirements, one may be
considered an active line member of our brigade. That is, we will count you as able-bodied and
capable of bearing arms. In addition to these requirements, all that will be necessary to become an
actual full-fledged member of the brigade will be an oath to defend the Constitution of The United
States, and of the State of Michigan. The oath will be administered by the Brigade Commander or
acting representative thereof, and will be given at any training in which one completes the Level One
requirements.

There is no time requirement to complete Level One, other than those dictated by outside events. It
makes sense of course, to get it done as quickly as possible.

Persons completing Level One are eligible to be assigned to a fire-team, can be placed on the phone
tree, will be issued a Wayne County Militia patch (still in the design stage), and can be issued a
new "Wayne County Militia" ID card (which is required by the Geneva convention for militias and
other volunteer corps).

We welcome your comments and suggestions regarding these simple requirements.

APPENDIX I: NOTES ON UNIFORMS
AND HEADGEAR

One of the most frequently asked questions that we hear is, "What kind of uniform should I get?".
Since there seems to be a large non-conformity streak running through our brigade, we won't issue a
specific uniform requirement, and will instead feature a brief discussion on the matter.

Most militia persons tend to wear US Army style BDUs (battle dress uniforms) in the woodland
camouflage pattern. As with other things, the government has spent a lot of time and money on
testing for its equipment, this includes camouflage patterns. For Michigan, the woodland pattern is
fine, and it works most of the time. Michigan is primarily covered by trees.This would be the
preferred option, if you wish.

There are also large numbers of foreign military surplus camouflage clothing available. Most of this
will work for our purposes, as long as you wear some kind of patches or insignia that identifies you
as a militia person (you DO NOT want to be mistaken for a foreign soldier if things get screwy).
Remove any foreign insignia from any uniforms that you may have.

Other commercially available camouflage patterns look cool, but may have very limited applications.
The desert, urban, or black patterns are exceptional under their specific situations, but you probably
don't want to wear them into the woods, at least not in daylight.

There are patch order forms available from Brigade headquarters, and we have an SOP (standard
operating procedure) on where to have them sewn on your uniforms. At the very least, get a
subdued (green)"Don't Tread On Me" patch sewn on your uniform in a highly visible location.
There are many other militia-type patches and insignia available, and nothing can prevent you from
arranging your uniform as you wish, but some semblance of uniformity wouldn't harm any of us.

As far as headgear goes, we haven't made helmets a requirement, at least not for Levels 1,2, or 3.
You can purchase one, if you wish. Many of our comrades have bought Kevlar helmets, and some
of them have the old steel pot helmets. If you can afford the Kevlar, that's great. That's what our
regular military uses, so you know it should be of good quality. The steel pot helmets served well for
many decades, so they deserve some consideration, also.

Many militia outfits wear berets. Nothing will prevent you from wearing a beret, but remember, it is
the most useless thing that you can wear on your head. They do not shade your eyes from sun, wind,
or rain, and they can become incredibly hot. Unless you just want to look good (we will admit that
berets do look good), there is no reason to wear a beret.

The military type soft cap (the one that looks kind of like a baseball hat) at least shades your eyes.
The ones with the fold under ear-flaps can keep your ears from freezing when it gets chilly.

The watch caps that you can find anywhere work well at night, but they can get warm in the summer
months. Still, they would be a good choice for the "commando" look.

One of the best types of headgear would have to be the "boonie" hat. They offer shade and
protection from the weather, they do not overheat your brain, and they look cool. If you need to
pick up some type of headgear to complete your uniform, you should give strong consideration to
the "boonie" hat. They are available in woodland, tiger-stripe, desert, and possibly other camouflage
patterns.

APPENDIX II: LIST OF SUPPLIERS IN
WAYNE COUNTY

Locally, there are several suppliers of military surplus goods. In addition, some sporting goods
stores, and even large department stores may carry useful equipment.

HARRY'S ARMY SURPLUS 2050 N TELEGRAPH ROAD AT FORD ROAD

SURPLUS CITY 1900 N WAYNE ROAD AT FORD ROAD

GI SURPLUS OF WAYNE 34932 W MICHIGAN EAST OF WAYNE ROAD

There are additional suppliers throughout the state. Check your local yellow pages.

APPENDIX III: SELECTED LOCAL GUN
SHOPS

There are several local gun shops. Be advised that sporting good stores, especially any Gander
Mountain, will have some selection of firearms. There are also regular gun shows which may offer
exceptional deals.

SHOOTER'S SERVICE 29419 6MILE ROAD IN LIVONIA

ALEXANDER'S GUN SHOP 27363 MICHIGAN AT INKSTER ROAD

SILVER BULLET INC 5929 SCHAEFER 2 BLKS NORTH OF FORD ROAD

NORTHWEST GUN & AMMO 26249 GRAND RIVER IN REDFORD TWP

The following gun shop, while not in Wayne County, is considered excellent:

JAY'S SPORTING GOODS 8800 S. CLARE AVENUE IN CLARE, MICHIGAN

NORTH OF MT PLEASANT, WORTH STOPPING AT IF YOU'RE UP NORTH.

APPENDIX IV: MAIL-ORDER
SUPPLIERS

The following is a partial listing of some of the many mail-order suppliers that you may wish to
contact. Many sporting good catalogs, such as Cabela's and Gander Mountain, will also contain
useful gear.

US CAVALRY .........................2855 CENTENNIAL AVENUE, RADCLIFF, KY 40160

CHEAPER THAN DIRT.............................2536 NE LOOP 820, FT WORTH, TX 76106

RANGER JOE'S..................................4030 VICTORY DRIVE, COLUMBUS, GA 31903

BRIGADE QUARTERMASTERS....1025 COBB INTL BLVD, KENNESAW GA 30152

SPORTSMAN'S GUIDE........................411 FARWELL AVE, SO. ST PAUL, MN 55075

Write to any of these companies and request to be put on their mailing list, or ask them for a current
catalog. Sometimes there will be a small charge for this, but it is usually worth it.

Also, we regularly take delight in reading "The Shotgun News", and it's entirely possible that you
will as well. We recommend that you, or someone in your group, subscribe. A one-year
subscription, 36 issues, should cost you around $30. It is well worth it. Contact them at:

The Shotgun News

PO BOX 669

Hastings, NE 68902

To subscribe by phone, call them at 1-800-345-6923.

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