Web hosting Custom Email SiteBuilder

Weapons of War 1:


Suitable Arms for the Militia Irregulars
One of the questions I often get, when potential recruits ask about the Militia,
is "What kind of guns am I gonna need to join up?" Its often used as an
excuse not to join when someone says, "Well, I can't afford an AR-15 or
M1A." Both types are usually surprised when I tell them, No weapons are
needed to join a Militia unit. The reason is simple: The Militia, like the
standing armed forces, needs many personnel in supportive roles who will
probably never see combat. Of course, that's not the main thrust of this
article. This article is about just what kind of weapon will those troops that
face combat need. Let's take a look at several factors that affect that. To start
off, we must divide the Militia into 2 categories. Those who are Regulars, or
engaged as full time, front line troops, and those who are Irregulars, and, for
reasons of being behind enemy lines, working as double agents, or whatever,
are not prone to going into standing battle. In this issue we'll deal with the
Irregulars.

Arming the Irregular
Irregulars need weapons for 1 of 3 reasons;
Self Defense, Special Operations, and Supporting Regulars in Battle.

Arming for Self Defense Obviously, if working behind enemy lines, either as
an infiltrator or because you are stuck there after your area is overrun by the
enemy, your chance being caught or exposed. There is also the possibility that
either rouge units of enemy soldiers, or lawless gangs, with the breakdown of
civil order, may attempt to rape, pillage and plunder. Self defense weapons
would therefore be needed. For personal self defense, a small, personal and
concealable sidearm is best, when you must be out in public. Even a .22 or .25
automatic is better than nothing. It has been my experience that when shots
are being fired, the average person doesn't attempt to figure out the caliber of
weapon used, and its effectiveness against them. Rather, they flee, seek cover
of freeze from fright. Of course, larger calibers ARE more effective, and
would be preferred, IF they are available, concealable, you are skilled at
employing them properly. If working as an infiltrator or double agent, you
may find that you are both issued a weapon and required to wear it! For
defense of family and property, both rifles and shotguns are useful.
Sometimes you'll have no choice, whatever is at hand, even that 25
automatic, might be all that you have. IF you have a choice of weapons, use
what is most suited for your situation. Are you an apartment dweller, or do
you live in an area so crowded that rifle rounds may hit family members or
innocent bystanders? Use a shotgun. Do you live in a suburban or rural area
where you need to engage your attacker from afar? Use a rifle. Again, caliber
is of little import if you have no choice, but bigger is usually better, IF you
can handle it effectively.

Arming for Special Operations
When arming for special operations, several things must be kept in mind: Are
we planning on engaging the enemy in open battle? Are we in need of special
weapons for this operation? Will be able to openly carry weapons on this
mission? Does the weapon play any role in this mission except defense? There
may be other considerations, all of which need to looked at on a case by case
basis. Most special operations are covert ones, i.e., they are carried out in
secret, and contact with the enemy is neither expected nor desired. These
would include disrupting unguarded rail lines, blowing up bridges,
communication links or infrastructure being used by enemy troops, or
destroying supplies or manufacturing plants that are not guarded. For such
missions, weapons are mostly for self defense, in case caught in the act. Long
guns are suitable if in rural areas, where there is little chance of being seen.
For urban operations, or when daylight actions may be mandated, concealed
weapons must be used. This limits you to handguns, or sawed off
shotguns/rifles and submachine guns under long coats, weather permitting. If
special weapons are needed for your operation, equip yourself as appropriate,
or change tactics to encompass what weapons are available. Are you in need
of a silenced weapon to take out sentries? Are you going to engage in sniping
enemy Officers or high ranking civilians? Will there be a need to lay down
massive, full auto covering fire? For each of these, special weapons, which will
be covered in another lesson, are needed.

Arming to Support Regulars in Battle
Irregulars are often called upon to supplement Regulars in open battle with
the enemy. Experience, weapons available, tactics employed, and a host of
other issues will determine whether they are employed as security troops,
reserve troops, special forces or main battle troops. If employed as main
battle troops, they will need to be equipped with main battle rifles similar to
what the Regulars have. An AR-15 or MINI-14 will suffice if the Regulars
have M-16s, and M1As will do if they have M-14s, FALs or similar weapons.
Caliber compatibility is what is most essential here, as resupply of individual
types of ammo is not possible on the battlefield. Also, the weapons of the
irregular need to have essentially the same capabilities as those of the
Regulars in this situation. While a bolt-action .308 matches the M-14 in
caliber, its ability to fire rapidly and ammo capacity are sorely lacking. As
reserve troops, there is some need for similar firepower and caliber, but this
may not be possible to achieve. If a reservist has a 742 Remington in .30-06,
and enough ammo to feed it for the battle, that should suffice. Second choice
would be pump or lever action weapons, of suitable caliber to engage the
enemy effectively. Bolt actions, especially old military models that can be
reloaded using stripper clips, can be effectively utilized by experienced
soldiers. Security details, depending upon where situated and how utilized,
may be armed with anything from handguns to .30-30 lever guns and be
perfectly equipped. This will of course be determined by the Officer In
Charge. Special forces will need to be equipped as the mission dictates.
Snipers, diversionary teams, grenadiers, or whatever must have the weapons
and ammunition suited for their mission. Special weapons will be covered in
another lesson. In General Any Irregular who may need to shoot in either an
offensive or defensive situation, has need of a weapon. If you cannot afford
an M1A, but can afford an SKS, by all means buy one. If you already have a
bolt action .243, or a lever action .30-30, it may have to suffice. Whatever you
have or purchase, you need to be proficient with it, and need to have
sufficient amounts of ammunition for it. Even military caliber ammo will be
in short supply in a battle area. Unless you can be assured of constant
resupply, stockpile the ammo you have need of and learn to reload. In a
future issue, we'll cover suitable arms for Regulars, and specialty weapons.
For God and Country
Tim Dreste





Weapons of War 2:

Suitable Arms for the Militia Regulars
Main Battle Rifles
If you'l recall the introduction from our last lesson, you'l remember that we
divided the Militia into 2 categories. Those who are Regulars, or engaged as
full time, front line troops, and those who= are Irregulars, and, for reasons of
being behind enemy lines, working as double agent, or whatever, are not
prone to going into standing battle. Since we covered the Irregular in the last
lesson, we will be dealing with suitable weapons for the Militia Regular in this
issue, in particular, the Main Battle Rifle. Arming for the Battlefield The
primary focus of the Militia Regular is to be a combatant on the field of
battle. The primary weapon used must therefore be a suitable Main Battle
Rifle (MBR). All nations of the world that I am familiar with have, at a
minimum, a semi-automatic rifle as their MBR. Although used successfully
by insurgents, most notably by the Afghanistan Freedom Fighters, the bolt
action rifle is not suitable for a MBR for front line troops. The question of
what model of rifle to use as a MBR has, of course, divided military
strategists for years. We will look at several factors that should affect that
decision. If after all, you have a very effective, high capacity weapon that is
either to hard to employ, or too fragile to be reliable, what good is it? As we
look at various criteria, we will evaluate the weapons in that class, giving
known strengths and weaknesses. Semi of Full Automatic? One of the first
questions that need to be answered is, do I need a fully automatic weapon?
Since the typical Militiaman supplies his own weapon, and full autos are both
expensive and tedious to possess, (special taxes, licensees, etc.) think hard on
that one. We may be supplied, once hostilities start, with full auto weapons
from our government or an ally. If not, they are readily available through
capture on the battlefield. I will note for those who think that they can=92t
do without it the experience of the Rhodesian Army: Toward the end of the
Rhodesian Civil War, when supplies were running low and hard to replenish,
the RA took the auto-sears out of their troops' weapons. The results were
quite telling. Kill rates did not diminish, casualty rates did not go up, and the
only difference noted at all was that ammo consumption went down. There
are times when full auto is needed. But if you'll note the rate at which
full-auto eats up a magazine, and the time it takes to change it, you're
generally better off with controlled, semi-auto fire. For these reasons, we will
confine ourselves to the semi-auto MBR. Fixed or Removable Magazines The
next question is, what are the strengths and weaknesses of fixed vs. removable
magazines? Everyone, of course, wants to be able to shoot 20 or 30 times
before reloading, and reload in a heartbeat. This would seem to demand
removable mags, but that discounts their weaknesses. Without a magazine to
insert, the weapon becomes a single shot, very s-l-o-w to reload weapon. Can
you afford to supply yourself with dozens of magazines? What happens if you
have no resupply for an extended period of time? You may be able to get
ammunition, but not magazines. What then? During battles, no matter what
you are taught, you WILL lose magazines. If you have to change mags, and
leave one or two on the foxhole floor when you retreat, what do you do if you
dont have more? Can you exist with only one magazine? The fixed magazine,
on the other hand, is never lost. It may be slightly slower to reload, but with
the use of stripper clips, it's speed is not that much slower than a mag change.
The main problem with the fixed magazine is its capacity. While most
removable mags are 20-30 rounds, and there are 50-100 round drums
available, the fixed mag is usually limited to only 10 rounds. Fixed Magazine
MBRs There are only 1 1/2 fixed magazine semi-autos commonly available
and suitable as MBRs. I say that because one of them, the M-1 Garand, is
kind of a hybrid. Well, start with it. The M-1 Garand is a rugged, reliable,
battle proven rifle. It is limited to only 8 rounds, and MUST use the en-bloc
clip, or it becomes a single shot. While it saw our boys through WW II, and
on to Korea, it does have a few drawbacks. It is more than a bit on the heavy
side, and comes standard in .30-06 caliber. It can be easily converted to .308
for around $100, with the simple installation of a new barrel. Another
drawback is the clip. Like the removable mag, it is essential to have one for
the weapon to be effective. The working mechanism is a bit complicated, and
the external operating rod has been known to cause problems. Not without its
warts, it makes a decent MBR. The only other fixed magazine semi-auto
suitable as a MBR is the SKS. Introduced in 1945, the Samozaryadnyl
Karabin Simonova saw limited use in WW II, but has been used ever since by
many nations. Reliable under any conditions -- IF you keep the gas port clean
-- its main drawback is the 10 round fixed magazine. This can be updated
with the Chinese 20 round fixed mag, or one of the 30 rounders available on
the market today. NOTE: Many of the 30 round mags have reliability
problems, the Chinese 20 has no such problem. One other possible drawback,
which will be covered later, is the weapons caliber. Available for around $100
(Chinese) to $200 (Russian), these inexpensive weapons are a bargain for the
poor Militiaman. Removable Magazine MBRs While there are many weapons
of this type to consider, the focus of this lesson will be the ones most
commonly considered by American Militiamen. These are the Colt/Armalite
AR-15/AR-10, Springfield M1A, Ruger Mini-14/Mini-30, M1 Carbine,
FN-FAL, and AK-47/MAK-90. The Colt AR-15 and full auto M-16 brother
actually started out as the Armalite AR-10. Lightweight, of modern design,
these weapons have proven themselves in battle since the 1960s. The only real
difference between the 2 is size and caliber. The AR-15, with it's .223 caliber,
does have the advantage of 30 - 100 round magazine availability over it's .308
caliber big brother, which has a 20 rounder. It would be possible to make 30
-100 rounders, but I know of none available. The AR-15 also has the
advantage of being cheaper, and having tons of surplus M-16 parts to fit.
Although the early M-16s and M-16A1s had a tendency to jam in full auto
mode, the latest versions have overcome that problem, and semi-auto fire
almost never saw it. The Springfield M1A is the semi-auto version of the
M-14. It's basically a removable magazine, .308 caliber version of the M1
Garand. It's only real drawbacks are the cost and that it's slightly heavy.
Proven in Korea and Viet Nam, and many places since, it's still used by our
military for special uses, as well as some other nations. Improvements in the
original M1 Garand design have eliminated what mechanism problems its
predecessor had, and it would be hard to go wrong with this weapon, if you
can afford it. The Ruger Mini-14/Mini-30 are essentially scaled down versions
of the M1A, but have never been used as battle rifles. They are a not cheap,
and the fact that they have no military counterpart could mean parts
problem, or unknown problems if actually used in battle. The Mini-14 is a
.223 caliber rifle, while the Mini-30 uses the 7.62 x 39 Soviet round. Accuracy
of the Mini-30 is actually less than that of the much cheaper SKS, although
the Mini-14 has no such problems. The M1 carbine, similar in design to the
M1A and Mini-14, was adopted by the US in 1941. Never really intended to
be a MBR, it has, nevertheless, seen its share of fire-fights. Weighing only 5
1/2 lbs, its light weight and small size make it perfect for what is was supposed
to be -- a substitute for sidearms. As someone once said, It's a piss-poor rifle,
but it sure makes a hell of a pistol. The FN-FAL, or Fusil Automatique Leger,
was introduced by Belgium's Fabrique Nationale in 1950, and quickly became
the standard military rifle of dozens of nations. A great battle rifle, it is a bit
heavy, but many are now being imported into the US at fairly good prices.
One thing to look out for is that there are 2 models, the metric and inch
pattern. Parts are not interchangeable, and some imported rifles have inch
uppers and metric lowers, or vice versa. Magazines must also match inch or
metric. Last, but certainly not least, is the AK-47/MAK-90. The Avtomat
Kalashnikov was adopted my the Soviet Union in 1947, and is used by more
armies worldwide than any other MBR. The MAK-90 is simply the post
Bush-Ban civilian model, with no bayonet and a thumbhole stock, as pistol
grips are somehow evil. Reliable, proven, and inexpensive, it must be
considered a best buy for any Militiaman. Its only drawback is in the fact that
it shoots the 7.62 x 39mm round. That leads us to our next consideration for
the MBR. Caliber Selection If you want to start a fight amongst any group of
shooters, just say that you think the ___ is the best cartridge around. From
1900 until the 1960s, every modern army on earth had cartridges in the
6.5mm to 8mm range, spiting out bullets at 2000 to 2700 fps, and producing
between 2000 and 2700 ft lbs of energy. Modern trends have been to smaller,
lighter, and faster bullets, in smaller and lighter cases. While the debate will
never end over velocity vs energy, let=92s look at what is needed to select the
proper caliber for our MBR. While the Swedes retain their 6.5 x 55 mm
round, and the Swiss their 7.5 x 55, most of the rest of the world uses one of 3
cartridges for battlefield weapons. The US and some of its allies use the
5.56mm NATO, commonly known as the .223 Remington. Loaded with a 55
grain bullet to 3200 fps, it produces 1250 ft lbs of energy. A newer, 62 gr
loading at 3050 fps produces 1280 ft lbs energy. For all the BS about the
bullet tumbling on impact, and blowing off arms and legs, it doesn't have the
reputation as a perp stopper that other rounds do. Readily available as
military surplus, and used my our own troops, it should never be in short
supply. Its light weight also means that you can carry more. The 7.62mm
NATO, or .308 Winchester, is still used by many countries for their MBRs,
and by NATO and US forces for machine guns. With its 147 - 150 grain bullet
at 2750 fps, it produces 2550 ft lbs energy. A known man stopper, readily
available as surplus or from US supplies, there really is no down side to this
cartridge, except the price of the weapons that use it. The 7.62 x 39mm Soviet
round, as used in the SKS and AK-47, spits out a 123 grain bullet at 2350 fps,
producing 1500 ft lbs of energy. While a better cartridge at man stopping
than the .223, it is not nearly as effective as the .308. Quite possibly the
cheapest rifle ammo in the world right now, (stock up), it is not used by US
forces. In Conclusion What weapon should you use, and what caliber? All of
the above have advantages and disadvantages. If we are facing foreign
invaders, and have resupply from US Arsenals, then a .223 or .308 makes
sense. If we are on our own, stockpiling AK ammo may get us over the hump
of the first few battles. No matter what, the MBR of the enemy is always a
good choice, as you have a constant resupply through raiding and the
aftermath of battles.
For God and Country,
Tim Dreste





Weapons of War 3:

Suitable Arms for the Militia Regulars
Specialized Battle Weapons
In our last lesson, we covered the Main Battle Rifle for the Militia Regular.
No matter which rifle you chose as your Main Battle Rifle, there are other
weapons that are needed for supporting roles on the battlefield. We'll take a
look at each of these, their uses, employment, and suitable weapons for each.
Machine Guns In the last lesson you'll note that I discounted the need for
select-fire weapons as a Main Battle Rifle. While this is true for the average
troop, there is a need for fully automatic weapons upon the battlefield. What
is that need, and what must we do to meet it? The primary purpose of the
Machine Gun is battle is Fire Superiority. By that we mean being able to fire
more rounds on target at a faster rate than the enemy. The secondary usage
of the machine gun is for use against hard targets. Let's look at both of these
uses. Fire Superiority Fire Superiority, and it's kissing cousin, Suppressive
Fire, are to keep the enemy from firing back, or stop him from doing so,
respectively. In a situation where you are attacking, Fire Superiority allows
you to maneuver troops into position a generally lessened risk of return fire.
Granted, you will get shot at. However, if the bullets are flying close enough
and fast enough, people have a tendency to keep their heads down, and not
fire as many return rounds. Suppressive Fire is used to slow or stop the enemy
from firing on you. If ambushed, or there are a large number of troops firing
at your men, concentrated fully automatic fire brought to bear in the proper
direction will either wound, kill, or force troops to duck. These give your menchance to retreat, seek cover, or prepare to overrun the enemy. (These are
all tactical calls that are beyond the scope of this lesson.) Hard Targets The
other use for machine guns is against so called hard targets. This would
include bunkers, trucks, tanks, APCs, buildings and aircraft. Concentrated
full auto fire, especially with heavier calibers like the .50 cal or .308, can often
disable, destroy or reduce the effectiveness of these things. A .30 caliber MG
can take down a helicopter, or destroy a truck motor. The big .50 can do that,
and move. It can penetrate heavy walls, and was effective in Desert Storm --
with special ammo -- against Armored Personnel Carriers They can also take
down low flying aircraft. Against tanks, concentrated .50 or .30 caliber fire
against aiming devices and tank treads may be effective on putting them out
of business. Just remember, they shoot back HARD!
Magazine vs. Belt Fed
The two types of machine gun are the magazine fed type, sometimes referred
to as an Automatic Rifle, and those fed by a belt of linked ammunition. Most
people are familiar with magazine fed type in the form of Uzis, M-16s,
Thompsons, MP5s, or grease guns. There are of course many others.
Common belt fed machine guns What are the strengths and weaknesses of
magazine vs. belt fed weapons? Magazine fed weapons are limited in capacity
to the largest magazine on hand, while a belt fed weapon can have belts
linked together until the barrel melts down. On the other hand, belt fed
weapons are much heavier, generally require an assistant, and one cannot
easily reload spent links, while refilling magazi include the M-60, SAW, and
various Brownings, to name a few.
Tactics employed, as well as any number of other factors, will determine what
type of weapon is best suited for your operations. Light patrols, especially
security patrols in friendly areas, would generally preclude the need for heavy
machine guns, while attacking fortified positions calls for just the opposite.
Each squad should be equipped, at minimum, with an Automatic Rifleman, a
trooper with a select fire weapon, bipod and plenty of spare mags. Each
platoon should also have a Machine Gun Team, consisting of a 2-3 man team
and a heavy belt fed weapon, complete with bipod and tripod. Common
Machine Guns There are any number of select fire weapons available today.
All may be successfully employed in the role of Automatic Rifle, if caliber is
sufficient for the ranges it will be employed at. I wouldn't want a Thompson,
Uzi or MP5 for open field work, but would feel properly equipped with them
in close urban combat. The M-16 fires the .223 round, the M-14 and FAL the
.308, and AK47/ AKM the 7.62 x 39. The Uzi, MP5, and various =93grease
guns use the 9mm Luger pistol cartridge, the Thompson the 45 ACP. New
models are available in .40 S&W, but I no Army that has adopted this
caliber, only police agencies. All select fire weapons must be registered NFA
weapons, and have the taxes paid, for the Militiaman to legally own one. For
this reason, few are likely to be around until either supplied from government
armories or captured on the battlefield. In the alternative, AR-15 or AK47
type weapons, equipped with drum magazines and Hell-Fire trigger activators,
would suffice, and greatly help to equal the odds. The US currently uses the
M-60 machine gun, a belt fed weapon in .308 with a quick change barrel, and
the SAW, or Squad Automatic Weapon, in .223. The SAW is unique in that it
can employ either a linked belt or M-16 magazines as a feeding device. They
came on line after I got out of the Corps, so I've yet to play with one, but I
hear good reports. The .50 cal MG is only an option if you have a vehicle to
mount it on, but if that's possible, it's a great weapon! Sidearms I consider a
sidearm a special weapon, as it has 2 uses, self defense and covert ops. For the
most part, sidearms are used for self defense. Usually issued to officers in lieu
of a rifle, or to pilots in case shot down, they also have value for special
operations. In choosing a sidearm for self defense, consider caliber
effectiveness, ammo availability, reliability, and ease of use. This is mostly a
personal decision, so pistol or revolver, single or double action, .38, 9mm, .40
S&W, or 45 ACP, it's up to you. Just make sure you know it's limitations,
and how to use it well. For specialized apps, pick what is appropriate. Tunnel
Rats in Viet Nam used the .45, our standard issue pistol at the time,
Currently, our military uses the Beretta in 9mm Luger, but the new SOCOM
special ops pistol is a silencer ready .45. As was stated in a previous lesson, if
you don't have the special weapons for the special ops, change tactics or
don't do it. Grenade Launchers Currently, the US uses the M203 40mm
Grenade Launcher. It can be employed to fire fragmentation, smoke, or
incendiary grenades, and flares. Civilian 39mm grenade launchers can be had
that fire all but the fragmentation grenades, and would make a good
substitute for most uses. Soviet Bloc nations employ the RPG, or Rocket
Propelled Grenade. A cross between a grenade launcher and bazooka, they
are highly effective and will be useful if captured. Anti-Tank Weapons Both
the LAW (Light Anti-tank Weapon) and it's newer counterpart, the M136
AT4, are single use modern bazookas. If captured or supplied through govt.
sources, they can be employed against bunkers or armor. In Conclusion The
well-equipped squad should have, in addition to individual weapons, at least
one light automatic weapon, (or substitute) and a grenade launcher. Until
hostilities start, this will mean no fragmentation capabilities for the grenade
launcher, and limited automatic weapons. As capture and supply by friendly
forces allow, specialized weapons can be integrated into the unit, and tactics
changed to match the new abilities. Next week we'll cover the Sniper Rifle.
For God and Country,
Tim Dreste





Weapons of War 4:

The Sniper Rifle
In this lesson, we will cover the Sniper Rifle. We'll take a look at various
aspects of what it takes to make a good Sniper Rifle but their uses,
employment, and tactics associated with them will not be covered in depth,
just the weapon itself.
What is Sniping?
Sniping is the killing of selected targets, usually at long range, and generally
outside the range of normal battlefield weapons, effectively accurate range.
Tactically, sniping is usually employed to remove key officers and enlisted
men from the enemy ranks. It can also be employed to create a general
atmosphere of anxiety amongst enemy troops, causing them to think that
there is never a time or place of safety. Employed both during battle and at
times when there is a lull in hostilities, The Sniper and his weapon can
sometimes greatly effect the outcomes of conflicts. Sniping, except in hostage
situations, rarely occurs at under 300 yards. The average battlefield rifle can
be effectively employed at shorter ranges, even with open sights. At greater
ranges, the ability to hit a target in a vital area, with the energy and accuracy
needed to kill with one shot, generally requires a superior grade of optically
equipped rifle. What Makes a Good Sniper Rifle? A good Sniper Rifle must
have Target Grade accuracy, be totally reliable, have a rugged, high quality,
optical sight, and be of sufficient caliber to effectively kill with one shot at
long ranges. That's a lot to ask for. While highly accurate, many of the
common Target Rifles built today lack the ability to be reliable in the rough
and tumble environment of the field. Some have no safety, almost all have
triggers so light as to make them unusual in the field. A friend's rifle had a
trigger so light it would fire if you closed the bolt too hard. That's not
acceptable. Neither is a scope that's so finicky you must transport the weapon
in a hard case. All of the right attributes must come together to present the
whole package. Let's take at look at some of them.
Action Types
The action of the Sniper Rifle can only be one of two types. Either we have a
bolt action, or we use a semi-automatic. Levers, pumps, and single shots all
leave something to be desired. The first 2 will not give enough accuracy for
the long range shooting we need to do. The last will not give us the quick
follow up needed for multiple targets or for the seldom needed second shot
on target. What are the pros and cons of each? Bolt action rifles are the most
accurate type of repeating firearm known to man. Strong enough to take any
caliber made, they are also one of the most reliable. Dangerous game hunters
the world over use bolt actions because of reliability. Only the double, which
is really 2 rifles in one, is considered better in that aspect. Those with
controlled feed, i.e., Mausers, Springfields, pre-64 type Winchesters and the
like, insure that you will never end up with a case both in the chamber and
being fed into it. Even experience riflemen have been know to do that under
stressful situations with other types of bolt actions. The disadvantages of the
bolt include the fact that you have to work the bolt. This means a slower
second shot, and also that the motions of doing so could give away your
position. There is also the matter of reloading. Most bolts have a fixed, top
loading magazine, and even ones with removable mags often only hold 3 or 4
rounds. Semi-automatics, on the other hand, are not as reliable or accurate.
They do offer the advantages of quick follow up shots, high capacity,
removable magazines, and no tell-tale motions are needed to chamber
another round. Currently, the US Army is switching from M-14 based to
Remington bolt action sniper rifles. Which type you choose may decide upon
other factors, or simply be an individual choice. Caliber selection The caliber
you must be capable of delivering down range a bullet with enough energy
and mass to kill with one shot. The .223 just isn't big enough to do this. In
reality, nothing less powerful than the .308 Winchester will do. More powerful
rounds, such as the .300 Win. Mag., give flatter trajectories and more power
at the business end. One factor to consider, before you decide upon
something like the .297 Zepher Super Supreme, is the availability of both
loaded ammo and components to reload with. There's a lot to be said for
sticking with a popular factory round. For all practical purposes, only 7mm
and .308 caliber cartridges have the available Match Grade bullets of
sufficient weight to qualify. That limits our selection a bit, but there are
several cartridges that will fit the bill, from .280 Remington to .30-378
Weatherby Magnum. Unless you happen to have a suitable rifle around that
you can use as a sniper rifle, I suggest you stick with .308, .30-06, or .300 Win
Mag.Both components and factory fodder are available, and all have been
used in this role with much success. Scope Selection A rugged, high quality
telescopic sight is needed to bring the target into clear focus from afar. There
are many commercial scopes out there that will meet our need. What are the
things to consider when looking for a scope? One thing to consider is
magnification. Too little magnification will limit our range. Soviet snipers
used to use a 3.5 power scope, but that's rather limiting. Target shooters, on
the other hand, use as much as 36 power scopes. That limits field of view
severely, and we're not trying to put 5 shots in the same hole, we're trying to
put one shot in a chest cavity. A 3-9 variable will do fine, and a 4-12 is even
better. Anything over 16 power is too much, in my estimation. Remember, a
10 power magnification brings a 1000 yard target in to an apparent 100 yard
range. We also need to consider objective lens size. The larger the objective
lens, the more light gathering ability the scope has. A 3-9 by 32 scope doesn't
transmit enough light to be useful in twilight or heav= y woods. A 40mm lens
should be minimum, and the new 44, 50, 56 and even 60 mm lenses are better
yet. Anything above 50mm, however, can get really pricey. Reticules, whether
they be dot, cross-hair, post or plex type, are a matter of personal preference.
Some modern scopes have range-finding reticules, usually consisting of
multiple cross-hairs, that assist in determining range to target. Before you
invest in a scope, try to use several types and select what you are comfortable
with. Most scopes can be ordered with one of several types. Some scopes now
have lighted reticules. This allows you to shoot at a target when you have
enough light to see it, but not enough to pick out your cross-hairs. Trijicon's
scope even lets you change from black (unlit) to red, orange or green,
adjusting it to your light conditions and personal needs! A big advantage is a
scope with target style adjustment knobs. This allows you to dial in your
scope for wind and distance by simply using your fingers. If you don't have
that, you'll have to hold over/under and left/right to compensate, as field
adjustment with a dime isn't an option. Some scopes have ranging cams on
them that allow you to do a quick dial in to targets. They're often more
trouble than they're worth. Whatever scope you pick, mount is securely in
good bases and rings, and Loctite the screws into place. I prefer the turn-in
dovetail type of mounts. There is no need to quickly remove your scope, so
Weaver style mounts offer no advantage, and are more likely to shake loose.
Load Development Unless you plan to feed your rifle only factory ammo,
you'll need to develop a good handload for it. Talk to target shooters and
varmint shooters who use you caliber for a place to start. Use only quality
components, and make minute adjustments until you find a load or two that
works with your particular rifle. Try different combinations of primers,
powders, cases and bullets until you have 2 or 3 that are super accurate with
your rifle. Beware of special Very Low Drag (VLD) bullets. Although very
accurate, they require special high rates of twist in a barrel, and would limit
your ability to switch loads. Accurizing Any quality factory rifle today will
print a 1 inch group at 100 yards. That's much better than it was 20 - 30 years
ago, but still not enough if we want to do really long range sniping. Minimum
standards should be 3/4 inch at 100 yards. That, after all, translates into 7.5
inches at 1000 yards, and even more when you include the effects of wind, etc.
Better yet would be 1/4 to 1/2 groups. That's Match Grade accuracy, and
that's what we need. Short of having a rifle custom built, how do we achieve
that? Several methods of accurizing are available for fine tuning existing
guns. Problem is, you'll probably have to find out what works with your rifle.
Here are just some of those methods. Start with a good trigger. Most factory
rifles have non-adjustable triggers, and they have a high trigger pull for
liability reasons. A good Canjar or Timney trigger can work wonders. Then
free float the barrel, and bed the stock properly. Bedding kits can be bought
at most sporting goods stores, and it's not hard to do. Free floating the barrel
means to remove the stock material in the barrel channel, starting about 2
inches ahead of the receiver, until you can pass 1 or 2 heavy pieces of paper
between the barrel and stock. There are several methods for accruing the
barrel. Fire lapping is cheap and often effective. Cryogenic freezing runs
around $100, and gives some improvement. Fluting the barrel often helps to
stiffen it, improving accuracy. Something that is fairly new, but gives great
results, is to install an adjustable weight on the end of the barrel, similar to
Browning and Winchesters=92 B.O.S.S. system. The weight is then adjusted
for the particular load, and is probably one of the best advancements in
firearm technology in recent years. Of course, nothing will make a junk barrel
a match barrel, and if having a custom rifle made, or an old one rebarreled, it
pays to spend the few extra dollars it takes to get a good Douglas, Shilen, or
Lija barrel to start with. Putting It All Together Where would I start if I were
attempting to put together a Sniper Rifle? If I wanted a semi-auto, I'd go with
Springfield Armory's M1A match rifles, do some good load development, and
see where that got me. If not satisfied, I'd then look into tweaking the barrel.
Stoner makes a sniper rifle, based on the AR-10, but it starts at around
$2500. That's a bit pricey. For a bolt action rifle, there are a lot of options.
Carlos Hathcock, the famous Marine Sniper, used a Winchester Model 70,
bought at a hardware store! Remington and Ruger make rifles that would be
a fine basis for a sniper rifle, as would any Varmint style rifle. The best
bargain, and one of the most accurate out-of-the-box rifles, is the Savage
110FP Tactical. Created for just such a purpose, it comes with a heavy barrel
in both .308 and .300 Win Mag. The trigger is adjustable, and pretty good for
a factory job, but some may want to replace it anyway. With good load
development, it will do 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. ALWAYS do your load
development before you tweak your barrel. Put a quality Burris, Leopold or
Tasco scope on top, in good mounts, and you'll probably have a rifle that will
outperform you.
For God and Country,
Tim Dreste