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Big, bad and ugly (to some).
That's Panerai. Officine Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy by Guido Panerai. During WWII, they supplied watches, compasses, torches and depth gauges to the Italin Navy marine commandoes. There were 2 versions of the watches, the Radiomir Panerai which used radium and the later Luminor Panerai which used trituim. The originals are extremely desired items at auctions. The tritium, crown lock device and Angelus 8-day movement were introduced only the 50's. The original movement was a Rolex or Angelus hand-wind. The current line utilises ETA pocket watch movements.
In 1993, Panerai issued re-editions of the Luminor model and started producing the Mare Nostrum chronograph. Both were in a limited edition of only a hundred pieces for each version. These are now selling for more than 200% of the original list.
After the Vendome Group accquired Panerai in 1997, they re-started the regular production lines. The Luminor and Mare Nostrum models were produced in unlimited numbers and other complicated models were added. Another limited edition was unveiled, the platinium Luminor with the original Rolex movement. Only 60 pcs. of those wil be produced. The estimated output of Panerai watches in 1998 is about 6,400 pieces for world-wide consumption. All in the current range are tested water-resistant to 400 m, but Panerai only guarantees them to 300 m.
The Original WWII Italian Navy Version with depth guage and compass
The ORIGINALS!!!
Limited Edition Luminor
This was issued in a limited edition of 1000 pcs. in 1993.
Limited Edition Mare Nostrum
This chronograph was issued in a limited edition of 1000 pcs. in 1993. It was originally designed for deck officers, but never put into production.
Luminor
The basic model of the new Panerai collection. Also availible in black PVD case (below). My next watch???
This is essentially a Luminor with a COSC cert and sub seconds. Also availible in left-hand versions and black PVD case (below).
Divers watch with racheted, unidirectional bezel. Also availible in matte finish titanium.
A dual timezone watch with date. A serious threat to the Rolex GMT Master?
Power-reserve and date. Maybe Panerai should add a perpetual calender, split-second chronograph, grande and petite sonnerie and a tourbillion. Then maybe I'll consider it...
The photo is quite misleading, it looks quite small here but the diameter is actually 42 mm! Only watch in the whole range only water-resistant to 50 m.
All Panerai movements are finished quite nicely with "cotes de Panerai", which is the word "Panerai" engraved over and over again in gold all over the movement. All the brigdes and plates are perlaged.
A 17j hand wound ETA pocket watch calibre. Its utilised by Panerai for the Luminor and Marina. The jewels seem to be held by gold settings.
This is essentially a Valjoux 7750 with the chrono modules removed. Panerai needed an auto with sub-seconds at 9, so I guess this modified 7750 fits the bill. This has 21j as opposed to the stock 7750 chrono with 25j. The blue steel screws add a touch of refinement in such a "rough" watch.
Just a 21j ETA 2892-2 with the GMT module.
A 24j ETA 2892 with a Soprod power-reserve module. The extra 3 jewels must be for the power-reserve module.
I do not know what movement is in the Mare Nostrum chronograph, but my guess is that it's an ETA base with chrono modules as the pushers seem slightly higher than the crown. It has 43j, a power reserve of 40 hrs and a 28,800 bph glucydur balance with micrometer index adjustment. Hand-engraved cotes de geneve and adjusted to 4 positions.
Photos and information from Orologi, IWW Issue no. 48 and the Panerai catalogue.
